somebody (like your mechanic) has to make some math on the back of the napkin for you, so you get the idea what kind of expense would be expected if going “repairs” route
some people suggested to remove the heads, fix valves and pistons’ tops, assemble everything back together
here is an example of “napkin math” for this scenario ( I use RockAuto prices as reference):
parts: new timing chain kit: $200, gasket kit (assuming valve seals and cam seals too): $75, valves: $250, new spark plugs: $40
materials: antifreeze, oil, sealants $100
labor $1500
run similar math for “install junk-yard engine”, assuming some limited refurbishing on it
whatever estimate you come up with, once mechanic starts working it, he may find some additional damage to be repaired, so budget for at least 50% additional expenses you can swallow before saying “it makes no sense to proceed”, as once you start work, you are on the hook
it would make sense to inspect insides of the cylinders with borescope to determine if damage to piston tops is such that this route is even possible without replacing pistons
that should give you an idea if you want to get into this or you want to cut your losses right away
I do recognize that this price is below what mechanic will charge, let’s say by a factor of 30% or so, but for that price difference OP will get mechanic to warranty the part and not to deal with logistics. Well worth it.
He essentially needs an itemized estimate from a good independent mechanic.
Dealer will not do this kind of work, their only option will be to replace the engine.
Ask your shop how much they would charge to remove the cylinder head(s). Once it is know for certain what’s lurking under the heads they’ll be able to advise you if it makes sense to do some version of rebuild, engine replacement, or scrap the vehicle. If you don’t want to go to that expense then pay off the $6500 and sell it for scrap.
Hi all, the shop said it would be $7000 for a brand new Ford engine ( $5300 for engine, $1700 for remainder)which doesn’t make sense to me to do. They are looming at pricing out a used engine and will contact me tomorrow. Does getting a used engine make sense, Then attempt to sell it? At what price point would make sense to do this?
Or if I go used engine route, should I continue to drive it till it dies? How soon will that be though… what if something else breaks and it’s just an endless cycle…
Any chance to bargain with the shop for $1000 so they could flip it? How should I present it?
One of the mechanics at the shop might be willing to take a flyer. No harm asking. They might want to take the risk to fix it themselves in their spare time. They’d be betting it just needs a valve job. You’ll still have the lien to deal with though, the mechanic will want a clear title, no lien.
A used engine from a rear-wrecked version of the same vehicle makes more $$-sense than a new Ford crate engine imo. There may be some difficulty finding one is the problem. If a used engine got it working well again I’d continue to drive it, rather than selling.
I think the used engine makes the most sense if the current engine can’t be repaired. Then drive it until the wheels fall off or until you pay it off and save up some money for the next car. Whichever comes first.
I’m not sure how you can bargain with the shop… Obviously, you have to pay off the car before you can sell it. I’m a little concerned that if you pay off the $6500, ditch the Lincoln, then get a loan on another used car…quite possible you could be in a similar position to what you’re in now down the road. But I’m no financial advisor.
I do agree with you that sinking $7k into the car is a no go. I’d see what they quote on a used engine and ask if the current engine can be repaired and if they’ll provide an estimate for the repair.
UPDATE - Hi all, appears the shop was able to update me and provide me an estimate. Stated the engine was 109,000 miles, 6 month warranty. Attached the estimate. Does all of this look fair? Anything severely overpriced where they could be taking advantage of someone who doesn’t know much about cars?
I don’t see anything out of line that I noticed. So, $3600 or so for a used engine with 109k miles (with 6 month warranty), $7000 for remanufactured crate engine, labor included on both, right?
Kind of a tough call. I believe I’d pass on the new ($7k) engine, since the car isn’t very close to being new. Too much to put into it. You just have to decide if you want to put $3600 into this car or towards a different (new to you) car. The $6500 still owed on the car will have to be paid either way, so it’s sort of irrelevant in the decision (although very relevant to your finances lol).
pay attention: it is 6 month PART warranty, so it has to be checked if labor is included or not
it may get into a situation where this “new” engine fails 1 day prior to the warranty deadline, then it may happen that you will be faced with another $3,600 - $1,400 = $2,200 bill to swap it to the “warranty unit”.
a friend of mine was in a long argue with a shop on the similar issue, in the end the best he could to was to split the costs 50/50
That’s correct on the $3600 and $7k. Labor included on both. To be honest, it needs a full set of new tires too. Which is probably close to another 1k.
Has anyone ever done this procedure with a used engine? My luck is something else goes wrong and I’m just super screwed over : /
Once a used engine is in it, pretty much no one will buy it, correct?
@greendragon , they did say if the engine goes I would be responsible for the labor costs. Which you are right, is about $1600 plus the hassle of everything
Where I work we install used engines, I don’t recall any problems in the last ten years. The estimate you were given is quite reasonable, it would be $2000 higher in my area.
It is 13 years old so having an engine transplant is not all that unusual .
John , are you the only one who is making this decision ? If there is another person in your household then you have reached a point where the two of you have to decide what will let you both sleep at night.
Tires should not cost 1000.00 for this vehicle , you really don’t need Pirelli P7 or similar tires .
I would think if the used engine and labor to install it lasts for 6 months, you should be ok. Any immediate flaws with the used engine or flaws with the install should show up within 6 months.
Agree that you should ask them what you’re responsible for (such as paying labor again) if the engine fails within the warranty.
I would check how much this vehicle is worth if sold private party, then compare to the estimate to repair it and to estimate from a junk-yard.
I agree to other posters that this vehicle is not good long-term keeper, but it may still be a valid choice of repair/sell vs junk.
The price on both the engine and hourly labor looks good. Make sure you and shop agree who’s responsible for the labor to diagnose & repair the problem if the engine doesn’t run correctly after it is installed. If the shop accepts responsibility for that – they should for a certain amount of time, like 1-3 months imo — make sure you both agree for how long. All these “understandings” need of course to be in writing. But overall, that looks like the better of the two choices imo. The main problem that tendsd to crop up in engine replacement jobs from the posts we get here are incompatibilities between the replacement engine and the existing computer. Or if the computer is replaced to match the replacement engine, between the replacement computer and the rest of the car.
