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2007 Honda Civic - Cracked Engine Block

The engine block on my 2007 Honda Civic cracked. Apparently there was a casting or design flaw on the north American versions. Mileage is about 160k. I am considering putting in a new engine. Not sure I trust a junk yard version so I am looking online. Any suggestions on where to buy?

You have a 2005 Yukon on its last legs and a 2007 Honda with no legs left . Might be a good time to replace both instead of spending a lot of money .

Where is it cracked? Is it running badly, or leaking?

Leaking from the front center low on the block. I did not notice it but the mechanic pointed it out the first time it overheated. It ran poorly after, accelerated slowly and only got up to 60mph on a down slop. I kept putting more coolant (water) in after every trip. I drove it for about a month before it stopped retaining coolant at all. Had to tow it back to my house on the last trip. Now the coolant spills straight out of the engine when I try and fill the radiator.

What is the total repair cost of this operation? I have the same problem on my Honda
Acord

Dealer quoted me about $4,200 including the new rebuilt engine that they found costing about $2,000. I figure I can get a new engine from JDM for about a grand delivered and do it myself. Not that I have ever installed an engine before…

My advice is to sell the car “as is” on Craigslist as a mechanic special, and buy something else. Unfortunately, if you have to ask where to buy an engine, and how to install it, this is likely not a project you are able to handle. If you have to pay for labor, this would be a massive waste of money, because you could buy a different used car which runs for a lot less.

Also, as this engine uses an open-deck aluminum block, it is extremely fragile with regard to overheating or improper torquing of fasteners. Had the engine not been overheated to the point that it barely runs, my advice would be to pull the engine, lay it on the ground, and TIG weld or braze the leaks, which only go from the water jacket to outside. If people online claim that they have fixed this problem (when caught early) using J.B. Weld or another epoxy made for aluminum, then surely welding or brazing would deliver an even stronger and more reliable repair.

Here is a picture of the engine in question, showing the area which cracks and leaks coolant.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/364-cracked-block-early-r18-overheating/375348-external-block-crack-locations.html

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Installing an engine is a big job. Consider getting an estimate for the replacement engine from a trusted shop.

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Not what I would call a project for a first time endeavor .

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I fixed a weeping crack on the side of a Toyota 20R engine with JB Weld. I drained the coolant, put in a couple changes of water, emptied it, cleaned the area well and dried it with heat before applying the Weld. It never leaked again.

Fingers crossed, my 1999 Honda has not needed that repair. Good luck!

PS - I also ground out a channel over the crack to expose fresh metal, then slightly overfilled the channel.

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+1
On a human level, this would be similar to doing an appendectomy on your own body, with no training or experience.

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I watched 2 you tube videos, didn’t seem so hard just lots of steps. So I need a torque wrench and an engine lift. Anything else?

There is a first time for everything. If you treat this as an educational exercise, I say go for it. That assumes you can afford a small loss if you fail.Don’t buy a new engine until the old one is out and you are sure that you are up to the last half of the job.
Make sure you are pricing a complete engine …top and bottom end installed. Be sure you know what accessories are included. Don’t forget to replace hoses, belts, idler pulleys, etc. Also, make sure you have made an unbiased eval of the entire car first. Finally, make sure you have good safety equipment and a stable work area with enough ceiling clearance.

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Nobody ever installed and engine
before they did their first one. It helps to have another person to guide it in ad out. I would also recommend taking out the radiator even if the book doesn’t call for it.You will absolutely need help if you have to take off the hood and carefully scribe lines around the hinges first.

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It can be done yourself, my brother pulled the engine from his Mazda B2200 4WD with a rented hoist and tools, back in the days of nursing school. Pulled the truck into his parking spot off the back alley and hoisted the engine into his cottage.

Not something I’d feel comfortable attempting but would have a trusted shop do mainly because it would take them a fraction of the time that you’d need on your first try. Ours uses certain trusted sources.

Oh boy. It’s great that you’re willing to tackle this, but at least grab a case of beer to lure someone who’s done it before to come help. There are a lot of pitfalls for the uninitiated in swapping engines.

You’ll also need a bunch of tools including an engine crane. The Harbor Freight one works fine and won’t break the bank.

And take notes, with pictures, on the entire removal process, labeling everything you detach from the engine so you know where it goes.

If you have a manual transmission, plan on putting in a new clutch. Might as well, since you’ll be right there anyway.

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This was a problem from when this series came out in 2006 until they fixed it in something like late 2009 or so. Otherwise they’re very nice cars (we have a 2006 LX w/ 145kmi, runs like new, still waiting for the engine to crack). If the car otherwise is good I’d consider replacing the engine with a used one. Alternatively if you like the model you could consider a 2010 in good shape.