Thanks for the update @ank. Now we can each reconsider our opinions on turbos and Subarus. And I will try to decipher the relationship between a cam angle sensor code and the lack of turbo boost.
As they(?) say, “you live and learn.”
yeah, that’s what I don’t understand…Cam shaft is related to Turbo? I think someone explained it earlier, but it’s confusing. He said once they fix the turbo, they can tell if I also need a new sensor. HE told me $1600 for the part and $600 for labor for the new Turbo. Seems like a lot, but if it’s fixed well, i’ll be glad.
Also, the guy said something about how it happens from low oil. So, I asked him if the oil was low (since I had checked it and it didn’t appear low to me). He said No, oil wasn’t low. So, now I’m more confused.
Why not just leave the turbo off? Essentially downgrade to the non-turbo engine. (don’t know if that is possible re the engine computer) But that would save money and future maintenance.
Or put in a dummy turbo that is just a feed-through ??
In my experience, the 2.5 opposed 4 is plenty powerful.
I didn’t realize that was an option. Assumed I had to have it fixed? Wish I had never bought the Turbo!
$2200 seems a tad steep but clueless on labor in your locale.
http://allwheeldriveauto.com/how-to-make-your-subaru-turbo-last/
Sound like Seattle indy labor + part is $1700. Make sure banjo bolt replaced in process.
I have thus far avoided turbo replacement(deemed in excellent condition at 177k) but had other expensive repairs with same engine(burned valve). My wife/I strictly did 4k oil changes with dino but easy life as motor did 15k-20k/year with 70 mile highway commute 3 days/week.
Does seem steep, but it’s NYC. Thanks for the link! Helpful information!
$2200 in NYC is probably a bargain. Turbos are hard on oil, a small amount of oil lubricating the main bearing in the turbo gets very hot so it breaks down quickly. Fortunately it is constantly being flushed out with fresh oil, but because of this extra heat, the oil in the pan gets contaminated much sooner than in a non turbo engine.
As the oil gets older, it gets thicker. At some point, that can affect the cam positioner and could be the cause of your code. This is where synthetic oil really has an advantage, it does not break down from heat as fast. It still breaks down from heat, just not as fast and it can tolerate a higher heat before it starts breaking down.
I don’t think removing the turbo is an option. Most turbo engines have a lower compression ratio so that the boost doesn’t overstress the engine and cause engine knock. If you can run without the turbo, the engine will not produce as much power as a non turbo engine would.
“I didn’t realize that was an option.”
It’s not…
Assumed I had to have it fixed?
Yes, you do…
Wish I had never bought the Turbo!
It’s very likely that the turbo-charger would not have “grenaded” if the oil had been changed on schedule…
@VDCdriver - point taken. Clearly I will be diligent about this from now on. I will change it every three months no matter what. It’s worth it.
Also, update, I called to make sure they were also replacing the Banjo Bolt and they are indeed replacing it.
Good!
I’m glad that you have given some thought to this issue, but I think that two of my earlier points bear repeating, just so that you don’t have to waste money on avoidable repairs in the future:
Timely maintenance is invariably cheaper than the repairs that result from lack of maintenance
Turbo-charged engines are not a good idea for people who are less-than-conscientious regarding maintenance.
I usually am very conscientious. With my last car, had oil changed every 4 mos and regular tune ups. I though that when we had our car inspected in November, that they also changed oil. It was a new place for us and looking back at receipt, I see that they didn’t change it. Other than that, oil has been changed every three months since it was new.
Just to ensure good automotive health in the future, be sure that you look at the description of Severe Service in the maintenance booklet.
Most people seem to think that this much-more-frequent service schedule is for only a few people, when–in reality–many (perhaps most) drivers use their vehicles in a manner that means they should be adhering to the Severe Service maintenance schedule instead of the “normal” maintenance schedule.
My experience with turbo chargers is dated and mostly with diesels. I recall that it was S.O.P. to let turbo charged engines idle for up to a minute to allow the turbine to slow from a very high rpm while there was oil pressure present. The instructions were on the dash board of multi-fuelers. Is that still recommended? Does anyone have a water cooled turbo charger? And as simple as they are it would seem that they could be rebuilt quite cheaply.
Modern water cooled turbo’s use thermodynamics to continue flow of coolant when engine is shut off. I believe a high point in system causes this. Once temp equalizes down the coolant no longer is siphoned past the bearings.
Reality is turbo’s are in many many modern cars and trucks with no mention of them. Basic models(VW, Chevy Spark/Cruze, Escape) have them and even v6 Ford pickups(dual turbo) all in the name of some extra fuel efficiency. Not sure what will happen latter in life when these things lead a similar fate as OP.
A close friend(younger) drives a Chevy Cruze and never realized her car even was turbo. She knew lots about the iPhone integration etc though 
Just a driving appliance to her.
Should be done with my car tomorrow. I will pick it up and then respond to let you all know the details of what happened. thanks for all the help.
What I would be concerned with is spending 2200 on a new turbocharger and discovering there are engine issues related to oil sludging and/or coking.
That problem usually does not confine itself to one particular part or area.
Subaru started using turbos back in the mid 80s. After a year or so modifications were made to allow engine coolant to aid in cooling the turbos down but that was no guarantee. They could and did fail if the oil change regimen was not the severe service schedule, wrong oil used, engine oil run chronically low, engine overheating involved, etc, etc.
Best of luck.
@ok4450 the likely achilles heal is the banjo bolt with fine mesh screen. One neglected oil change would plug that screen cutting the oil supply off. However at same time not effect the main oil stream unless the turbo blew up into enough bits to make its way back. Subaru did not use this setup on WRX/STI devoid of this issue and turbo failure seems significantly less.
@ok4450 I would hope that for 2200 spent at a Subaru dealer, they would inform me if indeed there are other engine issues. Will see when I pick it up this afternoon.
@ank–Even if further issues are not mentioned voluntarily, you need to ask whether the engine was checked for the presence of accumulated oil sludge–either by removing a valve cover or by using a wire probe (as described earlier by ok4450) in the oil drain opening.
Additionally, you need to ask about the supposed camshaft position sensor issue.
To my way of thinking, a problem with the camshaft position sensor would have a relationship to a turbo problem only if the engine is choked with oil sludge.
If they say that there isn’t an issue with the camshaft position sensor, then you need them to explain why that code was recorded by the car’s OBD system, and how the turbo problem–all by itself–caused that code to appear.
Edited to add:
…and those questions should not be asked of the Service Writer–if you want to get answers that have any validity. You should ask to speak to the mechanic(s) who worked on your car, and if that is not possible, then you should ask those questions of the Service Manager.