At autozone, they said it had to do with the Cam Shaft. What does this mean? Related to oil?
Also, is this an expensive fix?
This is what the car sounded like 15 mins before the check engine light went on.
As I stated previously, that code is related to the Camshaft Position Sensor, which is often problematic as a result of ignoring oil changes and/or not using the correct specification motor oil.
As to cost, I don’t have a firm idea, but I think that $200-300 (parts + labor) is a likely cost, as this engine most likely has two of these sensors. Even if the code is indicating only one of them as a problem, I would suggest replacing both of those sensors. If it costs less than my WAG, then you can be happy.
However, this repair cost could simply be the tip of the proverbial iceberg if the engine is choked with sludge.
It is unlikely that the Auto Zone employee is more familiar with the situatio than you @ank. He’s just reading the definition of the code.
The likely technical issue of the code is that the camshaft sensor is indicating that #1 piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke when the crankshaft sensor is indicating that the piston is several degrees away from top dead center. I would also strongly suggest having the car towed to a Subaru specialist. If the timing belt is failing it could drop off a pulley and bend a lot of valves in seconds and that’s a very expensive problem. Possibly in the $thousands.
Thanks for the comments. The timing belt is not likely the issue. Was replaced on time in 2011. I’m bringing it into a shop tomorrow - will risk it and drive (about 1.5 miles) to shop. I will report back on the outcome.
^
All I can say is…Good luck!
OP writes …
At autozone, they said it had to do with the Cam Shaft. What does this mean? Related to oil?
You car’s engine has the variable valve timing feature. The camshaft is a shaft in the upper part of the engine that rotates with the engine, driven via the timing belt by the crankshaft, and the position of the cams on the camshaft set when the valves open and close. Variable valve timing means in certain operating condition, like high speed, high power, etc, the camshaft is mechanically rotated an add’l amount by an actuator using oil pressure so the valves open and close a little earlier or later in relation to the spark and compression in order to squeeze the most power and fuel economy out of the engine. In your case it seems the valves are not opening and closing at the correct time, which indeed could cause a noise or vibration.
This feature is of recent vintage and can fail, and from the comments we see here, it seems the function it is very sensitive to using the exact oil the manufacturer specs, and to the oil & filter maintenance schedule. Besides that the two other common causes of problems are a failure with the electro/magnetic solenoid that actuates the function, and with the magnetic sensor which senses the camshaft timing in relationship to the crankshaft timing.
I would highly suspect that the timing is off enough to trip the code. If the cranksaft and camshaft top dead center signals are too far out of sync the code is set, as @George mentioned.
Thank you all. Very helpful information. Still debating whether to have it towed in the morning or just drive it the 1.5 miles to the shop. Tow trucks can take so long…
A 100.00 dollar tow fee plus a little time versus a possible 2 to 3 thousand dollar engine repair, boy is that a hard decision.
One more mile will mean the difference of thousands of dollars?
Independent shop said it sounds like the turbo is shot and that the only people who will touch that is the dealer. So, I am off to a dealer. Dealer told me on phone that as long as the CEL isn’t blinking, it’s ok to drive it in.
“One more mile will mean the difference of thousands of dollars?”
Yes, that is possible.
If the turbo “grenaded” as a result of lack of lubrication, that could mean the presence of a lot of metal particles in the engine’s oil supply.
So…just starting the engine is not a good idea.
So dealer is wrong? I should not drive it there?
Diagnosing anything from afar is…problematic.
Any of us could be wrong, as could the dealership.
Think of it this way:
All of the money that you “saved” by not changing the oil often enough can now be spent for a flat-bed to haul the car to the dealership (AWD cars cannot be towed!), and that may save you some money on the needed repairs by preventing further damage.
Then again, hauling the car to the dealership may not be necessary, but…Why gamble when that gamble could potentially be VERY costly?
Which cliche works for you? How about “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure?”
Neither the dealer nor anyone here has personally seen the car and investigated the cause of the problem so everyone is just making recommendations based on past experience.
Here is an additional thought to consider:
“Dealer told me on phone that as long as the CEL isn’t blinking, it’s ok to drive it in.”
The person to whom you spoke at the dealership is almost surely a Service Writer, not a mechanic. The percentage of Service Writers who have actual mechanical expertise is…very low…and most of them are hired solely for an ability to “upsell” customers on extra service procedures.
@ank turbo fragments in oil introduced to main bearings = new shortblock. New short block = $4000+ beyond turbo. Tow it 
If it was a turbo failure the key thing is the achilles heal of the setup Subaru used 2005/2006 in Outback XT/Legacy GT(mine) the banjo bolt. There is a fine screen called banjo bolt that prevents fine particles from flowing into turbo. However if it gets clogged(elongated oil changes whatever) it cuts the vital supply of oil to turbo and it self destructs. Make sure if you neglected the oil and even if not turbo to replace or remove this filter screen. Some folks change out turbo neglecting banjo bolt and shortly thereafter replace it again since oil line is clogged.
dealer just called and said I need a new turbo. $2200. Sounds right?