Locate pin 3 and pin 2 on one of the coils. This may require you disconnect the coil connector first. From what I see for coil number 1, pin 3 connects to an orange wire, pin 2 connects to a black wire. Be very careful w/pin 1 (yellow wire) b/c it connects directly to ECM. You don’t want a static hit or a short to occur otherwise the ECM could be damaged.
Thanks I’ll report back tomorrow.
Yes, that agrees with the wiring diagram. The wire colors I mentioned above are for coil number 1. Your photo may be for a different coil. The white and green combo is for coil number 4 from what I see.
So the # 1 coil is the front (toward the radiator) passenger side?
Suggest to take your car to a shop for a proper diagnosis. If you want to diagnose/repair this problem yourself you’ll need to consult a repair manual specific for this vehicle and its configuration.
you might want to go and register on nissanhelp.com forums and ask your question there.
their moderator is a long-standing Nissan mechanic, who’ve seen it all 
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Thanks George. Probably I’ll to bring it out to the dealer. I have a gut feeling that I have to replace the ECM.
Best of luck.
Problem fixed - First I took it out to an independent shop and the mechanic couldn’t figure out. Then I took it to a Nissan dealer and after keeping my truck for a week, they suspected the after market cam sensors and wanted $350 to replace just the bank 2 cam sensor. I refused and took my truck home and order both OEM sensor for $200 and installed it myself (45 minutes job). It has been a week now and it starts every single time. I never suspected the cam sensors at the beginning because there was no fault code at all.
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I wouldn’t have suspected a faulty cam sensor problem for a cranks but won’t start problem due to no spark. The computer uses the cam sensor (in regard to spark) to fire the spark plug only on the compression stroke. Without the cam sensor info it would have to fire on both compression and exhaust. But if the cam sensor fails then the computer will usually fires sparks on both compression and exhaust, the latter being a wasted spark. So the symptoms I’d suspect of a faulty cam sensor would usually be more in the likes of degraded engine performance, poor acceleration, mpg, and such. I suppose it is possible that a cam sensor could fail is some weird intermittent manner, producing incorrect signals rather than no signal, which might cause the computer to think every stroke is an exhaust stroke, and therefore never firing the spark plugs. Or the computer software might just not be sophisticated enough to know to go to a fail-safe mode when no cam sensor signal is detected. In any event, you’ve pretty much proved a faulty cam sensor can cause intermittant no-starts. Good for you, and thanks for posted again & keeping us informed. Glad you are back on the road.
Furthermore, you’ve proved that the dealership’s expertise can sometimes be the best method to get the proper diagnosis. You can then decide to replace the defective part yourself if you want. The dealership has more sophisticated scan tools, and I expect this allowed them to observe the cam position sensor signal was degraded. And they’d be right to fix that problem first before moving on to anything else.