2005 Chrysler Sebring air injection pump draining battery

Why not just buy a new relay?

Or temporarily swap it out with an identical relay . . . for test purposes

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What I was thinking too, db. But thought I’d post the readings anyway in case someone on here happens to know enough about relays to tell if this one is junk or not.

http://www.wellsve.com/sft495/relaygraphic.pdf

http://www.wellsve.com/custom_searches/ds_relays.php?voltage=&amperage=&relay=56007078&submit.x=53&submit.y=5&submit=Submit&voltage=

The 2 door Sebrings were using a 2.4 Mitsubishi designed and built engine. The 4 doors had a 2,4 Chrysler designed and built engine. The 2.7 was a Chrysler and the 3.0 was a Mitsubishi.

Update:

I did end up replacing the relay (June 23) and it’s been fine ever since. But not sure if that’s what the problem was because when I was under the car installing it I discovered that the intake hose on the injection pump was disconnected so I went ahead and reconnected it.

And for the P0128, it was the thermostat. Put a new one in on July 12, turned off the check engine light and it hasn’t come back on since. Somehow the thermostat’s piston had come out of the frame. No clue how that happened. Didn’t even know it was possible.

Anyways just wanted to follow up to let everyone know how it turned out and to say thanks.

~mystic

@‌mystic

Glad to hear you fixed everything!

“Somehow the thermostat’s piston had come out of the frame.”

It’s actually not an uncommon occurrence. It’s not particular to your car, by the way. Essentially, your thermostat was stuck open, because it was broken. Be glad it wasn’t stuck closed.

So I have the same problem, was MAP sensor the cause?

Thanks for the info, where is this relay?

Click on the link that Nevada_545 posted in this thread. It shows the relay location along with other related items. Relays do go bad at times but they also get blamed for problems that are elsewhere.