Unable to start my 2005 Camry LE. Haven’t had this issue before. The engine almost sounds like it’s hiccuping? Hard to describe. It’s not a battery or starter issue (I’ve tested). My neighbor, a good mechanic, thinks it might be a sensor. The car has in fact intermittently been showing a check engine light for an oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 3). From what I’ve seen online, though, this doesn’t seem like it’s often a problem when starting the car, more a fuel efficiency issue.
I’ve got a recording of it I’m trying to upload—not sure if it’ll work on here. Trying to spend a little more time with this on my own before I have it towed.
Spray some starter fluid into the intake while cranking the engine. If it starts and runs only when spraying, you have a fuel problem. If it doesn’t, you likely have an ignition problem… and a bad crankshaft sensor could be the cause.
This or a similar exhaust configuration was discussed recently in another thread. IIRC in that case the poster’s warm-up cat (#1 above) internal-matrix broke down and was swept downstream, clogging the second cat (#7 ). Further proof that complexity can breed many failure modes.
As far as for what this OP should consider, I concur w/@Mustangman 's approach; i.e. first step, determine if the problem is fuel or spark. If tests show neither is involved
I suspect this car has already been towed to a shop where they will first check for fuel pump operation, and then check for spark. If no fuel pressure, a new pump for you. If no spark onward to crank sensor, and other electrical issues (like timing), although it didn’t sound like a timing issue phew.
It would always be nice to know the problem before sending it to the shop, but after all, that’s what they do.
Update: got this towed today. Waiting on the shop to give me a call. With extra power on the battery the technician was able to start it just enough to pull it up onto the truck bed. He thinks it’s a blown head gasket. Certainly hope that’s not the case.
Odd follow-up here: the mechanic has reliably been able to start/run the car. They didn’t find anything clear that was explaining the bad start. They speculated maybe one of the cylinders was flooded? I stress that’s just speculation and I have no idea if that’s plausible. Computer hasn’t pulled any codes besides the oxygen sensor mentioned in the original post.
The 4 cylinder version of this Camry is prone the the head gasket bolts failing, Usually starts on the passenger side, back side of the engine, there would be some coolant leak. Not sure if this is the issue, but if it has gotten to the point of the engine not starting, then it might be a bit pricey to fix.
To be clear, it did start after turning over and sputtering a while, and I think only with the tech from the towing company flooring the accelerator. And it didn’t sound great once it started. Never dealt with this before so it’s all kinda beyond me.
Could coolant be leaking into one cylinder, enough to cause the “hicupping” (almost hydrolock) - an unsteady cranking speed?
If 3 cylinders are firing up OK, it might start and run badly for a few seconds, until the coolant in the bad cylinder that is making the compression too high makes its way out into the exhaust.
I had a similar problem many years ago w/my VW Rabbit. After doing some diy’er-fuel system testing, the engine cranked ok, but I couldn’t get it to catch & start. After several hours effort, gave up and had it towed to a shop. Shop phoned me back the next day: “What’s the problem? It started just fine for us!”. It turned out my testing had flooded all the cylinders and just needed some time for the gas to evaporate. All I had to do to avoid the tow charge was remove the spark plugs and crank the engine a couple times. It would have started right up, as usual. Live & learn I guess.
In your case, since this doesn’t seem to be related to any fuel system testing, you may have a leaking fuel injector or a faulty evap-system purge valve. Either could also cause O2 sensor confusion. It may be possible to easily disable the purge function (temporarily as a test) if this occurs again. Ask your shop. A fuel rail pressure hold test would show a leaking fuel injector. This could also be caused by a faulty crank sensor as mentioned above.
BTW, holding the gas pedal all the way to the floor during cranking on many OBD II cars such as yours signals the PCM you think the engine is flooded, so the PCM shuts off the fuel injectors during cranking to assist you getting the engine started.
Did I say fuel pump already? My car wouldn’t start in the ramp so had it towed 40 miles home to my shop. It started right up at the shop. Fuel pump intermittent. A little jostling and works again. Not to discount the crank sensor but I’ve had these symptoms so often, the fuel pump is the first thing that comes to mind. Easy if you don’t hear it running.
Yes, finding out if the fuel pump runs reliably is essential. In my cars, I can always hear it for a couple seconds after turning the key (remember doing that?) if I am in my garage. Not always audible in noisier places.
If it doesn’t run, try removing and reinserting the key and maybe holding against the top or bottom of its slot. If the mechanical part of the ignition switch is unreliable, that action may make a diff. The other thing is to knock the gas tank with a rubber mallet or 2X4. The vibration may jar something in the fuel pump so it will run.
