I hear you - but I figure I have very little to lose by asking…
To put a little perspective on this, the head gasket itself isn’t expensive, probably costs about $25. The expense is the labor to take everything apart and put it back together then test to make sure everything remains working. I’ve never done one of these myself, but I wouldn’t be surprised for it to take 10-15 hours labor, maybe more. If you ask for some assistance from the dealership, the worst that can happen is they say “no”. In which case you are in no worse of a position than you are now. So put a smile on your face, then Ask! Ask!
Also, the work-a-round idea presented above about retorqing the head bolts is worthwhile to talk about with your mechanic.
Thank you all - I appreciate all your input. I recall that the local mechanic said it would be like 15 hours labor - for the reasons you say -taking everything out. If need be - but it won’t! I will ask about sealing what is leaking and not replacing the entire gasket. Can one reach the leaking part enough to seal it w/o taking everything apart ?
I remain positive and hopeful until proven otherwise! I am the eternal optimist:)
Can’t seal it, but have them do as Ok recommended, re-torque the heads.
You any where near seacoast NH. I believe the typical head gasket takes my Subie expert about a solid day to change and I think about $1000-1200. His hourly rate is $60/hr.
I am in Boston - Newton to be exact. And is re -torgueing the same as sealing - is that fixing the leak ? I do not understand as I know very little about cars. Sorry:(
SO I should go to NH? Not easy for me - but I love Portsmouth!
Retightening the head bolts is not the same as sealing anything. It simply means that with repeated heating and cooling cycles of the engine a head gasket can relax and metal also changes its characteristics. This translates into the head bolts loosening up and in your case; engine oil seepage. Retightening the head bolts simply means snugging those up so the gasket is crushed down a bit tighter.
As an analogy, think of a leaky water faucet. To stop the leak one might twist the shutoff knob a little tighter to exert more force onto the seal in the faucet. Just consider the knob a head bolt and the seal in the faucet as a head gasket.
For what it’s worth, Subaru had a spell from the late 70s well into the 80s where they had no head gasket problems unless the engine was overheated.
There was a bulletin at the time that stated a head bolt retorque was no longer necessary on cars with automatic transmissions. Manual transmission cars still required this and everything was equal as to gaskets, head bolts, engine block, etc… So what happened?
The automatic transmission cars started leaking oil from the head gaskets and the manuals did not. Another bulletin appeared that stated the head bolts were to be retightened because of the oil leak issues.
The procedure will vary a bit based on year and engine and a mechanic may have to improvise a tool or two to retighten those head bolts as access can be limited. Tool improvisation is to be expected sometimes to accomplish the job.
my car is stick shift? Does that matter ? Thanks for the analogy- I get it:)
When heads are removed from the engine they are usually machined to make sure they fit well to the engine when they are reinstalled. The surface of the head that mates to the head gasket and surface of the engine needs to be absolutely flat with no irregularities in the surface that would promote a leak occur.
I think re-torqueing the head bolts is a good idea if Subaru won’t deal with you on this and it may solve the issue without much money spent. Even if it doesn’t work, you can just go on and live with it until you can afford the repair. Start a repair savings fund. Just keep your eye on the oil level to make sure it doesn’t get real low. When a quart is needed just add one.
I hope you keep enjoying the car. Where you are at, you are really getting the big benefit of owning a Soob this winter. Soobs rule the winter roads.
Thanks - I love getting all this information ! I love being armed with info when I go to car dealers/repairs shops. I am in Boston- I do love my car. It is showing it’s age in that it needs new struts - have not repaired that only cause of funding issues - but yes - unless a hydrogen fuel cell car becomes available - I see myself only driving Subarus:)
Anyone want to make suggestions of good reasonable mechanics in Newton, MA ? I have a place I go- but someone has suggested that it is not that cheap. I welcome suggestions as you can see and the more educated I am I figure the better!
Well, sometimes the using the cheapest shop costs you the most in the end.
Here is a shop that was on the top of the list from the ‘Mechanics Files’ that you can click on near the top of the page and check other places out if you want to.
@eelise, your car having a manual transmission makes no difference at all. The bulletin issued back then was misguided thinking based on the type of valve train in the engines as the automatics had hydraulic valve lifters and the manuals had mechanical lifters.
Not that it’s any consolation, but around the same time Nissan came out with a similar recommendation. What happened? Nissan head gaskets started leaking oil down the side of the engine block. For some reason we were not allowed to retighten head bolts even though that would surely have stopped the problem. Marching orders were to replace the gasket but what the heck; we were paid well time-wise to replace the head gaskets. I used to do that job on average 2-3 times a week; same as with the Subarus except that with the latter a simple retorque would work.
Just one addendum. If you suggest a head bolt retorque you will probably hear that’s it not necessary, can’t be done, shouldn’t be done, won’t work, etc. About all I can suggest there is that you find a mechanic willing to at least give it a shot.
"I do love my car and I truly love Subarus"
I know how you feel. I always liked the ones I had but will have to get a very good deal on a used one before I would buy another. Subarus were the awd king for a long time but even though their system is still the best for the money, it isn’t so much more that the gasket issue and noisy motor in general doesn’t give me pause. Get in touch with with a representative from customer relations and whine and plead your case in the most conciliatory way possible. Be very surprised if they respond with any $$$$ help. When it’s time to buy, try out other equally good makes later. Tell the rep your intent when they don’t respond with financial help.
BTW,$100 diagnostic fee is cheap for knowledge that is essential. I would do it !
I agree with the overall sentiment here. The dealership/Subaru should not feel obligated to help you, but it doesn’t hurt to ask - they might decide to throw you a fish. You do have a bit of a better case since you have such low miles on this car - in my opinion, if the head gasket blows before 100,000 miles, it’s the manufacturer’s fault, but then I drive very reliable cars and get bent out of shape when other cars fail to live up to those standards. 
Were I in your shoes, I’d ask too, very nicely and without any veiled threats about not buying Subarus again. And I’d be surprised and delighted if they only agreed to meet somewhere in the middle, such as paying for their shop labor while I pay for the machine shop labor and parts. I think that’s a lot more likely than them footing the entire bill, but I still think it’s fairly unlikely. I don’t expect manufacturers to guarantee that their product will still be working perfectly after a decade unless they expressly guarantee that it will in the form of a warranty.
Hopefully for the sake of your wallet I’m proven wrong there.
I love all the information and advice here - thanks! So - who wants to tell me what my chances are that I will make it there tomorrow in the snow ? If my child does not have school I can drag her along and I am not worried about driving in snow - of course- but there comes point when even a subaru is best staying at home. I will try all of your suggestions. I have postings from the internet where they have paid for this very thing. I even have someone who has a 2004 legacy that had 46,000 miles - not so different that my 50,000. And they covered her in full. I am a social worker I can play any side pretty well - the nice and polite- the angry- anything that is called for…and I can play the card of I am a loyal subaru customer - which is fairly true. I dislike the dealer and everything with them has been a struggle - but I can play the card of you all have always taken good care of me and I have only gone elsewhere for oil changes - only you for big things - which is true as other than my catalytic converter - I have not had anything big break in my car- all 50, 500 miles of it!
Does it matter that my car was garaged for all but the last 6 months of it’s life ?
Good Luck but a non car question. How can you not have money to save, but do have money to pay a credit card? If you save, you only pay what things cost. And you pay close attention to what they cost. If you use a credit card you pay the cost plus interest and you don’t weigh the price as closely.
I would be happy to explain…if you care about the details - I don’t really have money for pay a credit card right now either…but my current job depends upon me traveling around the greater boston area- I need a car. I am spending more than I am bringing in at the moment - just a fact of life…working at changing that but it takes time…so no I do not…you do what you have to do!
" If you use a credit card you pay the cost plus interest"
That is only true if someone is foolish enough to fail to pay off the balance in full each month!
I am a very thrifty person, as that is the way that I was raised by parents who lived through some very trying circumstances during The Great Depression. I do not spend extravagantly, and I always keep my purchasing under tight control.
However, I pay for almost EVERYTHING on credit cards (none of which has an annual fee) in order to get the rebates & other perks that go along with those cards. And, then, I pay off the balance in full each month. When I say " almost everything", the only things for which I pay cash are…the car wash…parking meters…and the occasional lottery ticket. Everything else–including my utilities–is paid with a credit card.
The result is that I wind up with well over $350 per year in refund checks & rebate certificates, and there is really no downside to this plan–at least for me. If somebody has good self-control, it is entirely possible to use credit cards even if one is in fairly tight circumstances financially.
It all depends on one’s ability to control spending.
I have had 2 years of unemployment - as a social worker - a life change - downsizing of living and I am not at present bringing in enough money - I simply am in a tough time economically - just not bringing enough money - I switched careers and i am now working at building myself up in a new line of work - so just where I am now. Not all of us are fairing well these days in this economy…paying off the full balance is good when you have the cash and I don’t spend extravagantly!
Try here where a friend takes his Subaru from boston: