2003 Taurus starter

how difficult is it to change and which brand is best

It is not that difficult if you can get the car up some (ramps), some basic tools and a little automotive know-how.

I would get one from a store like BIG A/ PARTS PLUS/ ALL PRO, etc. They will carry good parts. I try to stay away from the Zone and Advance. Also price a rebuild from Ford, it might be close.