2002 Dodge Intrepid - The ticking is the least of the problems

Idk what’s causing this ticking noise here is my current issues inner and outer tie rods left and right, front right sway bar linkage going bad, steering gear box going bad, leak in exhaust manifold,cracked muffler, completely rusted underbody, excessive rich air/fuel mix, back right sway bar link snapped, all four struts bad, LTFT ADAP at 12,776% and pcm had to be swapped to a salvaged 3.5L pcm but all stats are reading the same as 2.7 pcm my current mileage is 147,512


You open with this ticking noise, and then go on to tell us that your vehicle is falling apart, but you never tell us about the ticking noise, is it coming from the engine, suspension etc etc???

I had a 95 Intrepid 3.5L and absolutely loved it, it felt like it was made just for me, but sadly they all ended up having lots of issues, including the front cradle bushings degrading to the point the cradle could and did fall out/off the vehicles while driving… And the little 2.7L was just plain junk, major oiling issues…

Sorry, but as much as I loved these vehicles, you are fighting a loosing battle… Mine was hit and totaled at about 70-80K, so I missed a lot of the issues, but my best friend had an 02 and just kept trying to keep it alive, free labor and it still cost him way more than it was worth, he finally gave up and junked it, BTW, it was rust free…

My advice is to put the money you are/will spend on your vehicle into a different vehicle…


Usually fuel trims by reports here rarely go much above 30%. Are you sure of the 12,000 + number? Is the fuel trim number more or less the same even w/the replacement PCM?

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Drive it to the junkyard and take whatever they will give you. If it won’t drive call them, they likely will come get it. This car is not worth spending a dollar to fix. Sorry, she’s done.

Welcome to the forum.


Indeed. The last junker I sold for scrap, pickup was arranged by the scrap yard and the driver showed up with a check. (Not for much, obviously, but it was out of my hair and I had a little something in my pocket). The one before that, my roadside service actually agreed to tow it in for me … and it was a bigger vehicle, and so I got “ok” $ by scrap standards, I think.

Those were the only two I sold for scrap. (One with a bad head gasket and not worth fixing. The other my Escort that dropped a valve seat and not worth fixing).


Well done, indeed


The OP reads like an obituary for the car. Time to call flatbed Ed.


Yes the car is always at 12000% 2/1 I have even swapped o2 sensors and both pcm read exactly the same I’m gonna clean or replace the fuel injectors it’s the only thing left to do (except head gasket,timing) but My car is no where near looking like that my sludge is minimal I’m over obsessive about all preventative maintenance and am fully aware of this cars severe defective 2.7L and I am fully capable of fixing anything wrong including head gasket and timing chain bringing my cost to fix down to $30 for head gaskets and $100 for a complete timing kit I just wanna know what other intrepid owners have experienced with this noise

You are the last Intrepid owner left. The rest all died. Not the owners, the cars. 23 years is 10 years past the “use by” date. :laughing:


Still have not explained were the noise is coming from or when it is doing it… like is it at idle, at 4000 rpms, engine running but car in park, or while driving…

Have you tried a different scan tool to read the fuel trims, that sounds like a bad scan tool/Launch problem with those crazy numbers…

Sinking any more money into that car is more or less like flushing cash down the toilet.

Yes, I also noticed that curious omission. In my experience, a cracked exhaust manifold can emit a ticking noise, but with the long list of very serious problems with that car, I wouldn’t even spend the money and the effort necessary to replace the manifold.


This is from a Jeep forum, sound familiar??

I edited most of it out, long post… lol

"Question: Today I put in new Mopar fuel injectors…and upon first start I got some less crazy readings and closed loop on both banks…then randomly back to the crazy non-moving 12,776.99% 2/1 long term and open loop 2/1.

Answer: That’s kinda awesome! I’m gonna chalk those astronomical fuel trims up to a scan tool/Launch problem. In my experience, the only aftermarket scan tool that seems to be able to talk to this generation of Jeep correctly is Snap-On. Launch, Autel and TopDon really struggle, and you end up with readings like this.

First thing I’d say to check would be to check the fuel trim values in Global OBD instead, especially when you’re seeing the 12,000 reading. In this context, I’d trust the OBD readings over the OEM data."

I realize it is about a 2006 Jeep 4.0L, but look at the fuel trim, basically the exact same…
You are possibly fighting an issue that doesn’t exist…

Idles perfectly at anywhere between 750-1000 and stays steady it makes it makes a thwap sound but that could be low compression from exhaust manifold leak/crack but i also thought its the scan tool but all other specs are 100% accurate triple checked wifh offical jeep/chrysler/dodge scanner and a few cheap obd2 scanner and forscan extended but loud and makes ticking noise from plenum

Oh I’m not replacing manifold just gonna use job weld extreme heat and exhaust leak adhesive wrap and call it a day🤣

You don’t get low compression from a manifold leak.

Keep your windows open when you drive unless you want to die of CO poisoning.

If your face is getting red, you feel nauseated with a headache, that is clear evidence of CO poisoning. Seek treatment. It will take 30 days or longer to purge your system of CO, so no driving. That will give you time to find an uncracked manifold, if they still exist.


I’ve done similar things in the past when desperation set in and the better options were out of reach. Few things to note-

  1. I have never seen a stock manifold that wasn’t coated in rust within days of installation.
  2. JB Weld will not adhere properly to rust layer, it’s likely to de-bond shortly after application. Cleaning off the rust properly is almost impossible without removing the manifold and sandblasting it. By then, you could weld it. Beware, manifolds often warp significantly and re-installing a well used manifold can be very difficult or impossible if warped enough. I have the tshirt for that one.
  3. Cracks never get better and will usually continue to progress unless a hole is drilled at either end of them to eliminate the stress riser.

Here ya go sir…
A current forum with lots of LH body model member on it…

Sorry, this is more of a fix it right kinda forum than a duct tape, bailing wire, put a band aid on it kinda forum…
Zip Ties are approved though… :rofl:


Yeah, I give that fix a day, then back to leaking. The ticking noise could easily be that leak.

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Ahh yes, the LH cars. Requires removal of the headlamp assemblies to replace the head gaskets. Fun times.

Since the underbody is the frame of this car, I can’t possibly understand doing mechanical repairs to a car that has structurally failed. You don’t fix the plumbing in a condemned house.


An exhaust leak will affect the fuel trim, however the maximum adjustment is 33% for short-term and long-term fuel trim, your display is corrupt if it is reading in the thousands.

A 3.5 liter PCM won’t operate properly with a 2.7 liter engine. These are speed density fuel injection systems, the difference in cylinder displacement will cause the fuel trim to be out of specification and likely cause a fault/check engine light.

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