first of all I would have to say. I love you guys I listen to you every weekend here in the Berkshires
Ok ,now my problem :I have a 2002 Chevy I have babied this car from the day I got it it has no a drop of rust on it so I don’t want to junk it 150,000 miles on it about 4 months ago It blew a head gasket I replaced it not to hard of a job about 4 hours and also pit a flat round bar on the head to see if it rolled across it to see if the head was warped the car ran fine till now ,I once again have white smoke coming out the tail pipe VERY LITTLE the car is over heating running RUFFF on idol and there is NO ANTIFREEZE IN THE IOL NO MILKSHAKE >>>>>> I can not afford to bring it to a shop but I am pretty good with cars but I am stumped on this can you please help it sounds like a blown head gasket Again is this possible could that happen with in 4 months
The “boys” have retired.
however, it has all the earmarks of a blown head gasket…again. Yes, it is not at all uncommon to have a second problem. The head could be warped from the previous overheating, a channel could be eroded by the previous head gasket leak, or the head bolts could have been improperly torqued.
You can buy a test kit for $20 (see link) and it’s easy to do.
http://www.harborfreight.com/compression-test-kit-66216.html
Did you install new head bolts? If you didn’t that’s where the problem is.
The head bolts on your engine are Torque-To-Yield head bolts. Which means they can only be used once. A TTY head bolt stretches on the final torque and is where it’s clamping force is the greatest. If the head bolts are reused, the bolts just keep stretching when torqued down and don’t provide the proper clamping force to seal the head gasket.
Tester
yes all new bolts and torqued to specs angle torque was needed I think it was 42 on head and 24 or rockers something like that
I followed instructions to the first tee I did it so far then moved on to the next it told start from the middle i think it was like 16 first time then 26 next there were several times I had to do each bolt in the same order to get them to the right SPECS angled I will get this tool and see what happens I checked the head pretty good rolled a round bar across it rolled right across it nice and smooth even put a level on it… it seemed to be perfect I guess I have to bring the head to a shop and have it checked the car is in mint shape don’t want to have to junk it
What is the “round bar” you’re talking about?
Heads are checked for warpage with straightedge, NOT a round bar
Using a level is NOT good enough
No offense to your level, expensive as it may be, but you’re using the wrong tool
The human eye would not be capable of actually seeing the warpage.
No offense to you, but nobody’s eyesight is THAT good
Here’s what it says when torquing the head bolts on your engine.
Apply clean engine oil to the threads and under the heads of the head bolts.
Torque the head bolts to 22 ft/lbs in the proper sequence.
Using a torque angle gauge, tighten the head bolts to 155 degrees in the proper sequence.
Tester
Which engine do you have? If it only took you 4 hours to do the head gasket I’m guessing it’s the 2.2 pushrod engine.
Was the head gasket obviously blown when you took it apart? Was it obvious which cylinder had the failure? I’m guessing you have a cracked cylinder head, which would give you the same symptoms you describe. At any rate, sounds like the head is coming back off, perhaps to be checked by a machine shop.
lol yep its coming back off but its strange the car runs fine in cold weather it is cold out today it is driving and running at normal temps I don’t get it it is like in the 50s today I have drove the car ok I guess ill take the head off have it looked at thanks guys love your show keep rocking
You are aware that Tom and Ray retired several months ago, correct?
yes 2.2 Pushrod its not hard job came right off I did have to disconnect the motor mount too but that’s nothing in this car i found it fun and a great learning experience I also used a normal to torque wrench i noticed i should have used a digital angled one soo the person may be right not torqued down right i will have it checked this time use right tools thank guys for all your help
no im not aware of that …then why are they still on my radio every weekend ? anyways I got the valve cover off there is no antifreeze at all not a drop in the valve chambers I am really confused now the last time it was full of antifreeze I hate to take this all off and that not be the problem
Um… How would you see warpage, if not with your eye?
@oldtimer11
You lay the machined side of the straightedge on the head
Then you see what thickness feeler blade you can insert between the straightedge and the head
Even if the head is warped beyond allowable specs, you will in all likelihood not see the warpage.
That is what the feeler blade is for.
Do you seriously think the human eye could recognize that a head has 0.006" of warpage?
I doubt it VERY much
Again . . . that is where the straightedge and feeler blade come in
hi guys I took the head to the shop it has been ground down I have a quick question about this chart for specs there was antifreeze in the piston chambers soo you guys were right the head was warped
Length: Head: Nut Grade:
46 Ft-Lbs
552 In-Lbs
62.37 N-m
Connects: Cylinder Head To Engine Block
Years: All Vote Record: Vote
Note: Vortec - Head Bolts - LONG - 2 Steps: 46FtLbs; +90deg
WHEN IT SAIDS + 90 Deg dose that mean ADD 90 degrease to the 46 or the final gage setting is 90 degrees or the total of the 2 that would be 136 so here what im getting first do them 46 do I reset the wrench to zero then crank the another 90 . I want to do this right so I don’t have to do at again thank you for all your time you guys have been a great help
This is what you do:
Tighten all head bolt to 46ft-lbs
In the correct order, of course
Then tighten all bolts an additional 90 degrees (with a breaker bar, if you don’t have one of those electronic torque+angle torque wrenches)
In the correct order, of course
BTW . . . Did the shop say how much material they shaved off?
Two more thing . . . make absolutely sure you clean out and chase all the bolt holes
And I highly recommend replacing all the head bolts
Another thing to consider . . . you might want to use that straightedge and feeler gauge on the block. If anything is going to warp, it’s usually the head.
Is your head aluminum alloy?
Is the block cast iron?
.006 is thicker than a human hair. Yes I can see a hair. I have always used a straightedge wit a light behind it. .006 would let a lot of light through.
@oldtimer11
My point was this . . .
You can not look at a head and see that it’s warped . . . WITHOUT a straightedge
But OP wrongly assumed that he could see warpage without using the proper tools
With all due respect to OP, rolling a bar across the head isn’t going to tell you much
BTW . . . I used the 0.006" figure because this would be out of spec in any manufacturer’s book