Blogs Car Info Our Show Deals Mechanics Files Vehicle Donation

2001 honda crv smoking without burning any fluids

Search terms…
Honda CR-V
Problems & Issues
6 hours ago · #1
2001 CRV and Smoke but no missing fluids
My car has 218,000 I had my oil pan gasket replaced (by CarMax) and when it got replaced my car started to smoke from the tail pipe(I brought the car back to them a few times already). I change the oil again and it help reduce the oil. I drove it about 4k miles change the oil again (the oil was dark no type of discolor in the oil) and I’m not missing any oil. I’m also not missing any coolant or brake fluid either. When I’m at a stop there no smoke it smoke when I’m pressing on the gas to go. If the car is on a inclined with the engine pointing up it smoke but when the engine is point downward there no smoke. The smoke is white/blue color hard to tell and it doesn’t smell like oil smell like exhaust. There a code p0420 code but my cat was replaced about 18 months ago I don’t know if that might have something to do with it. My o2 sense upstream was replacement but not the downstream. Does anyone have any idea what can be causing this issue on my car?

There are a number of things I suggest you check that are not clear from your post. A P0420 code is inefficient catalytic convertor function. Lets take the basics;

Is the engine coming up to full operating temperature? If it doesn’t, get a new thermostat and see if the smoking continues.

Are you checking the oil regularly? Every time you fill up with gas? Does the oil level go down? How fast? One quart in 2000 miles? 1000 miles? 500 miles? I’d bet this car is using oil and that is causing the blue/white smoke when you drive away. I’d guess a quart every 500 miles.

What you describe tells me the piston rings are worn out. The oil going through the exhaust is causing your P0420 code and will damage your replacement catalytic convertor as well as the two O2 sensors. This engine is likely in need of a re-build.

Absolutely on target!
Unless the OP spends the big bucks to remedy an apparent oil consumption problem, he will just have to keep replacing the catalytic converter.

However, I would question whether the book value of this 16 year old vehicle would warrant spending the money necessary to open up the engine in order to correct the oil consumption problem. It might be time for a new vehicle…


1 Like

Mustangman Engine does come up to operating temp. I check my oil regulary I just completed a oil change the 4qt that was in the car the 4qt came out after 4k miles. I never had to add any oil all of the other fluids r was the same didn’t have to add any. I have taken my car to CarMax where I got the car they couldn’t figure out why the 2 Honda dealership couldn’t find out why they through it was the same thing worm out piston rings. The cat is 18 months ago and the downstream o2 sensor is still the OEM from 2001 never been change which need to be because the p0133 come on now but the p0420 doesn’t.

anyways so after doing the valve adjustment today. I ran into and found the problem at hand. I found out that the chamber assembly and the intake manifold was full of oil that was causing the smoke for my car I have cleaned it and have had no trouble since. The PCV and the rubber hose was full of oil and has been replaced. Since I have clean the chamber assembly and the intake manifold the P0420 code has disappeared but the codes p0133 has appear. The only problem I have now is that I cant get the o2 to come loose lol I rent the o2 tool to remove the o2 doesn’t want to move I have spray wd40 and let it sit for an hour didn’t work.

OK, the PCV valve was the problem. That oil in the intake came from inside your engine and went out the exhaust. That tells me maybe you are not checking your oil properly or as frequently as you say.

As for the stuck O2 sensor. A couple of things to try. Cut the wire off, use a 6 point deep socket and a breaker bar (or an impact wrench) to really lean on it. I have also used a combination wrench with the closed end on the hex and a hammer to smack 2-3 inches from the hex to break it loose. A pipe over the end of the wrench can add a little leverage.

PB blaster soaking overnight helped getting mine out.

With a hammer, hit the metal part of the sensor (the hex part) and the bung welded in the pipe sideways from as many directions as you can…(might take 100 hits). Don’t go crazy, just tap, tap, tap…