2001 CRV - What do these codes mean?


I have a 2001 CRV which I bought from a used car dealer 3200 miles ago. It now has 68k. Unfortunately, I elected not to get an extended service contract, so taking it to the dealer isnt an option.

About 200 miles ago, I noticed that the car had this chugging thing going on when I was idling. It also felt like it didnt have the zip it had before. I checked the codes today at autozone and got this result:

P0301 - Cylinder 1 misfire

P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire

P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire

P0300 - Random/Multiple cylinder misfire

P1399 - Manufacturer control ignition system or misfire.

I also checked the DTC codes, dont really know what they are for. They said that the freeze point was P0303. There was a lot of other info with the DTC thing that I copied down…

The autozone guy said it didnt seem very serious and suggested a full tuneup, which isnt really something I can afford right now. Besides, I prefer to do almost all the work on my car myself. I’m thinking that I need to replace the Ignition control module. Possibly also the plugs, wires and coil pack? I know that I can do all the work, I just need someone to tell me what I need to do. Should I also check the fuel filter or fuel injectors?

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.


Just boil it down to …there’s a lot of misfire going on! Replace spark plugs ($8). Does she feel better? If not completely, replace the distributor cap and rotor ($40). Still a little sick? Replace the spark plug wires ($50 ish). Next, replace the fuel filter and air filter. That’s about all of the easiest stuff.


Hopefully this is nothing worse than needing spark plugs and plug wires. Be aware that continuing to chug along for 200 miles can make a minor problem much worse.
It’s just like a line of dominos; push one and down they all go.

A misfiring plug knocks out a plug wire which proceeds to beat other items in the secondary ignition to death.

There is a somewhat more serious issue to these vehicles and that is the postponed valve adjustment that is recommended by Honda.
These cars use mechanical lifters and if the valve lash (clearance if you will) shrinks to zero or less when the engine is hot the valves in the cylinder head will be held open a bit. This causes rough running and cylinder head damage.
This could be checked by connecting a vacuum gauge to the intake as a quick-test.

At this point I’ll give the valve adj. the benefit of the doubt and suggest that you change the spark plugs and wires. Hopefully that will solve the problem.


I totally agree with the first two responses. I will add a couple of things. First you can do most tune-up items yourself. Get a repair manual from the aauto parts store. A few simple tools and the book will get most of what you need done done cheap.

Next you say you “a full tuneup, which isnt really something I can afford right now” I suggest it is more expensive to let it go for a while than doing it now. There really is not such a thing as a “full tune-up” But there are a number of maintenance items (different for different cars) that the manufacturer recommends and doing them as suggested is the cheapest way to drive.


Thanks for the advice, hellokit, ok4450 and Joseph… I’m going to do it like you suggest, work my way up the line. Plugs, then cap and rotor, then wires, then fuel filter (already bought a K&N air filter). I did buy the Haynes book already so it should be pretty easy stuff. If it doesnt show improvement at that point I will probably have some more questions about the secondary ignition system and how to check/correct problems. I am also going to call the local Honda dealer tomorrow to see what they suggest (advice is free, right?). I will let you know what the outcome is. Thanks again…