I’ve got a 2000 Toyota Tundra with the 2UZ-FE engine. I’ve successfully changed the starter. My problem is that I have no idea how to properly torque the 14mm bolts holding the starter to the back of the engine. The problem is trying to wedge one’s hand in between the firewall and the engine to reach the bolts, much less squeezing a torque wrench into the tiny gap. I improvised by putting a bolt in a shop vise and practicing with the torque wrench to get a feel for the correct torque, then using a regular socket wrench to tighten the starter bolts.
Pretty much the way you did. Most mechanics would likely go by “feel” as you did in a tight spot. If you have enough room you might have used an expensive “break away” torque wrench (the kind you set the torque with a dial in the handle).
You put more care into doing this properly than most would have. Starter bolts generally fall into the category of being something that can be tightened to “enough” and call it good. As Uncle Turbo noted, most mechanics would have gone by feel to tighten these bolts and called it good.
By feel would be the best method. If you have to go in at an angle, with an extension, flex sockets, or whatever then a torque specification doesn’t mean much anyway because all of those will cause the fastener to be incorrectly torqued.
I believe the proper torque for those bolts is measured in German units, I think the specification is 2 gudenteits. Get them good and tight once, and then double check.
I doubt anyone in a repair facility would actually use a torque wrench on those bolts. You felt how tight they were coming out–about that tight going in should be fine.
Just go by feel…I’ve been doing so for over 20 yrs…
When I come across critical bolts like on a cylinder head however, I use a torque wrench of course, those are critical… For me, all other bolts go by feel.
I was curious one day and after tightening many bolts by what I thought was “correct torque by feel alone” I then tested the bolts with a torque wrench…Damn if I didn’t get within a couple lbs if not right on.
Don’t get me wrong…it isn’t as though I was a “natural” or anything…I’ve Just been doing this for so long AND I also take note of the bolt shank size, thread type and pitch…(its second nature at this point) Once you start to take note of those details without thinking, then its pretty intuitive as for how tight to make the bolt.
Most people are OVER tight offenders I would think… In your case just make them “tight” not “red in the face tight”… just “tight”…LOL…Does that make sense? You should be fine with that.
When I come across critical bolts like on a cylinder head however, I use a torque wrench of course, those are critical… For me, all other bolts go by feel.
I agree…almost all bolts are by feel…Head bolts DEFINITELY use a torque wrench (and follow the pattern). I also will use a torque wrench thinks like cast exhaust manifolds…or cast valve covers.
