2000 Toyota Camry Check Engine Light

The car was taken to a shop with a computer hook up and an error code indicated the EGR valve was faulty. It was replaced and for a day or so, the check engine light stayed off. This morning it came back on. Assuming it isn’t the same error code, we’re going later to the same shop, are the ECM’s that handle the error faults in Camry’s faulty?

There is no error code that will tell you that an EGR is faulty. Lots of parts get replaced every day, but don’t fix problems b/c the codes point to something about a system - they don’t tell you that specific parts are bad. EGR valves can be tested - was yours tested? Were the ports and passages in the EGR system checked and cleaned of carbon? There is probably some kind of a solenoid in the EGR system was that checked?

I’ll bet you still have the same code. Post the actual code that comes up when it gets scanned again.

The code was P0401. It produced a report that indicated likely failure with the EGR valve. The tech said it was likely a clogged tube that leads to the EGR valve so we’re going to take it all apart and clean it out and try again. Thanks.

I have a 97 Camry and I got the check engine light. I took the EGR valve off, It looked clean, I cleaned it anyway and the valve worked. I put it back together and I ended up with the same code comming up again. I am pretty sure it is the tube, I did’nt look at it when I had the valve off. One day I will get around to checking it. The car runs fine whatever the problem is. Let me know if that is what it is, Please.

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Yeah, the bad news is…I originally replaced the EGR valve & gaskets (2) because of a check engine light (CEL) and code P0401. I took it all apart again and totally removed the tube going into the EGR and of course both were spotless but we cleaned them anyways along with both ports and still the CEL came on within about 50 miles. Starting to think it’s the VSV and that seems very difficult to attempt, much less replace. On the 2000 4cyl it’s on the rear right lower third of the engine block up behind a stabilizer/mount just far enough that your arms feel like spaghetti after about five minutes of reaching up from a pone position…and equally “way down there” from a “on-top” approach. A real dinger of a part to chase…but I’m gonna do it anyways because it’s my buddies’ daughter’s car and it needs to clear its codes to pass inspection so it is a “must do”. I’ll keep ya posted but I’m hearing it’s approximately $600-$800 for a pro to do it with parts & labor.