I hope this really posts! More importantly, i hope i find an answer!! Someone please help!! I got a 2000 Ford, F-250 v10 4wd , that is giving me problems… The Battery! It keeps going dead on me! I just bought it brand new about 4 months ago, ( like a week longer then the warrenty would have covered) I checked it with a multimeter and it reads perfect! Did a couple tests while the multimeter was on the battery, everything checked out perfect! So that means good battery, right? So why is it that when i shut off the truck,head lights off, dome light off, everything unplugged, no power what so ever is being used, to my knowledge. Literally 5-10 mins later, batterys dead! I have to jump it! I dont think it’s the alternator, just put that in about 6months ago also, but i could be wrong. What my question is, what are all the possibilities to check on whats running my battery dead?? This way i can make a check list and go from there!! Someone please please help!!
Thanks!!
~ Girl haveing truck problems~
What kind of Battery comes with only a 4 month warranty? How much did you pay for it?
Since you have a multimeter, google How to check for a parasitic draw on my battery.
It actually had only a 90day warranty, like i said im aboit a week past the warrenty to bring ti back. I paid somewheres around $80-$100 ?? I did check for a parasiticdraw, like i said everyrhing came out perfect with the tests i ran with the multimeter. Thats why im haveing such a hard time trying to figure out whats going on. How is my battery perfectly fine, but yet wont start up minutes aftershut off. …
Well, a lot of places that sell batteries will test it and your charging system for you for free. I know Advance and Autozone will. If your battery was truly dead, you would not be able to jump start it in 5 or 10 minutes. The dead battery would be absorbing all the power from the source you were jumping it from. When it wont start, how many volts does your battery show?
I think you have a connection problem. When it won’t start, turn your headlights on, do they come on, if they do leave them on, do they go out when you turn the key to start? If they don’t, it is not a battery problem.
I’m still trying to figure out this “Brand New” battery for $100, that only has a 90 day warranty .
The cheapest battery at O’reillys that fits your truck is $109 and has a free 1 year replacement.
I’m thinking your starter needs tested, I’m thinking it’s drawing to many amps.
Please define “perfect” . . .
No offense, but a lot of people have absolutely no idea what is an acceptable value, in regards to parasitic draw
Next time, buy your battery at Costco
They have the most common sizes, very good prices, and a 42-month free replacement period. And they don’t ask questions should there be a problem with the battery during those 42 months. They’ll just swap out your battery for a new one. No muss, no fuss, unlike some other places . . .
Start off with this basic test. Before first start of the day the battery should measure about 12.6 volts. Immediately after starting the engine, 13.5-15.5 volts. What does yours measure?
What store sells that battery?
I’m thinking it’s a “Re-Conditioned” battery, it’s pretty scuffed up for being 3 months old.
I think it’s good? So, what is voltage with motor running?
I tend to disagree
The sticker clearly says “Distributed by Autocraft” . . . that’s a brand name owned by CarQuest and/or Advanced Auto Parts
I looked up the 65-V battery on the website, and it indeed is warrantied for merely 90 days. There is no mention of the battery being “reconditioned”
Here’s the run-down
90 day free replacement = $79.99 plus core charge
1 year free replacement $99.99 plus core charge
2 year free replacement $139.99 plus core charge
3 year free replacement $159.99 plus core charge
The cca also tends to go up, the more you spend
That’s the part number, right? I’m assuming it’s not actually a 65 volt battery. Seems like that part number might cause some confusion.
Yes, that’s the part number
It’s a BCI group 65 battery
Not to seasoned mechanics