1997 Honda Civic Cpe - Compression issues

@Triedaq right, the car, while being nothing more than an assembly, still contains life experiences in it somehow.

OK4450, went to the mechanic. He did the leak down test and says it’s worn piston rings.

Kind of figured that from the get-go. As suggested, another used engine would be the best route.

The problem with rebuilding a 300K+ miles engine is that it WILL be expensive. Just prepping the engine block alone (boring cylinders, line boring the main saddles, decking and vatting) could run 500 dollars or more and that’s not counting reworking the cylinder head/and a long list of parts.

@ok4450 the mechanic said the head was suspect too but no exhaust gas found in the coolant. The only reasonable route forward would be a used engine, I agree.

I think when I have reset the check engine code through my ODB app, the car reverts to a blank slate default. That has been when the car starts dying on me, but it learns the right mixtures and pretty soon the car stops dying. For now I can still drive it without it dying (hopefully both the engine and driver). The car doesn’t die when it throws the engine code, but when I reset and clear the codes I think. I just think that is interesting.

Not to be disagreeable, but I don’t like used engines. I especially don’t like them in a vehicle this old. If you can’t do any of the work yourself, like removing the cylinder head, then I think you’d be better off with a reman from a reputable supplier.

If you are paying a mechanic to do all the work, the cost of a used engine will be mostly in the labor. You may only get a year out of a used engine and then you are back at this point again. A reman may cost you twice as much, mostly for the engine, but the long run cost will be much less.

You would think a good used motor could be found from a kid swapping out the stock small civic motor with a bigger series motor. I know when they go the turbo route they try to start with a more robust motor.

I’m not a fan of used engines either but the thought of sinking a pretty good sized amount of money into a new engine on a car that has 330k miles on it is also distasteful. The trans has 330k along with the suspension, steering, etc and I would bet that a careful inspection would find a number of other needs in those areas.

Well, the mechanic did adjust the valves and the car is still idling rough, but all the cylinders are firing and it’s not dying. I washed and vacuumed it… it might keep hanging on for a while. Just so long as I don’t idle in neutral!

Thanks for the comments everybody.

1 Like