1995 ranger xlt 4x4 5 speed starting issues

ford
ranger

#1

For the past few days ive been tearing apart my 95 4.0 5 speed xlt ranger. It started when i shut the truck off to get my mail. Upon trying to start it again it took several tries until it would crank. It was acting like my clutch wasnt engaged( master cylinder, entire hydraulic line, clutch, and slave cylinder have all been replaced within the past year ) . Got it started, pulled in the yard and parked it, and later it would not start again. Noticed the fuel pump wasnt kicking but im getting 12 volts to the plug and the fuel pump runs and pushes gas when you jump the 12 contstant to the fuel pump in the fuse box. Replaced relays an still, nothing when i cranked. Long story short found no spark, nothing at the wire plug in but i have 12 at the plug that powers the distributer box. Replaced my lock cylinder and nothing. Still a crank no start. So i changed the ignition switch and now all im getting is a click somewhere under the dash, maybe near the inertia switch ( which is down) . I also replaced the solenoid thats clicking yesterday which is the starter saftey relay . Im absolutly losing my mind as this is my only mode of transportation. Any advice would be wonderful


#2

How old is the battery on your truck?


#3

This sounds like the starter is not even spinning…

Battery connections are the first place to begin when you have a “No Crank” situation. Even
if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be
allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. The connection may be
enough to turn on the lights, but not enough for the huge flow that is needed to operate the
starter. This is where many people say that they know the battery is good….”because the
lights come on”. This is no more a battery test than licking a 9volt battery. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.
Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem.

First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. There is a tool with a round wire brush for this purpose, found at any auto parts store for less than $10 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kd-tools-terminal-battery-brush-kdt201/25980576-P?searchTerm=terminal+brush.
Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast.

It is just as important that the other end of the cables also have a clean connection. Remove the negayive cable from the battery again so that you do not short anything out. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and retighten these connections.

If there was work done recently, there may have been an “engine to body” ground that was not installed following the work. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them.
Remember….this is not a “Sherman Tank” don’t over tighten the connections.
Tight…tight………………too tight…broke!!!

You have been just throwing parts at this.
Start with getting those cables cleaned and a fully charged battery.
Fuel pump would not have a thing to do with the engine not cranking.

You also say that you get no spark. So you must have gotten it to crank, but no start.
Then I would move on to the ignition control module and the crankshaft position sensor.

Yosemite