Ooops, missed the fact that it’s a TBI system. Have you tried pushing the throttle closed with your hand to lower the idle speed?
Is that the wheel thing on the right side of the throttle? I’ve seen videos where guys opened the throttle to spray cleaner in there. Is that it?
my iac had a missing o ring when I just changed it. I sprayed the crap out of the inside of my throttle body . I opened the butterfly and wiped it all out. the iac was filthy, I just cleaned it, but the inside the hole where the tip of theiac seats it was gunked up too . I got my finger in and scraped it as best I could, then sprayed more. after it dried and was re assembled my idle was much improved.
you may have dislodged some gunk and it settled in a bad spot. I would clean it all again and then wipe and clean and then let dry and try again to re assemble
sometimes I don t put things quite right the first time and see it when I redo it… especially if I m too worried about screwing up. as I always am the first time I do a new thing.
Well, ok… it’s obvious I’ve connected something wrong. The idling/shifting problem was annoying before I touched anything, but it was intermittent. After I replaced the TPS, the idling got worse and of course when I replaced the IAC it got much much worse. So I’ve connected something wrong, right?
If it’s idling this high, what happens if I shift it into drive? If I can’t fix this myself, will I even be able to drive it to a garage or will it have to be towed there? I have to ask these questions because I have to go back to work tomorrow and can’t keep borrowing my roommate’s car. I hate to think that I can’t get this fixed on my own, even though it seems so far that I’ve just made it worse, because I want to be able to repair my truck myself if at all possible. But I’ve put several days and 100 bucks into it (no small change for me) and blah blah blah…
maybe, work the throttle a bit by hand in the morning .maybe it will kick back down. and you ll be ok. it s probably some thing simple so don t worry to much.
it could be hard on the some thing in the tranny or linkage if you are idling extremely high.
if its not too scary high you should be ok .
I would get up an hour early and take a look with fresh eyes. try to move the throttle by hand. try to move it and see if you can get it down. I have a feeling it some gunk stuck some where or a part on not quite right.
you ll have to use your own judgement as to whether you want to drive it.
I think it may just fire up magically in the morning and if you hit the gas a couple times it will drop down.
I am not sure how the tps effects the idle but it could be in slightly wrong.
sorry about the troubles you are having. I think you ll see something tomorrow morning.
the parts come in and out easy enough I think.
good luck, wes
"Is that the wheel thing on the right side of the throttle? I’ve seen videos where guys opened the throttle to spray cleaner in there. Is that it? "
It’s where the throttle cable goes to open the the throttle plates. It should be obvious if you watch it while someone else pushes the gas pedal. Notice the direction it turns when your helper takes his foot off the gas pedal and see if you can turn it more in that direction to slow the idle down. You might need to readjust the throttle cable itself. I’m following the assumption that something is keeping the throttle open a little at idle.
I would not put it in drive with an idle over, say 2000 rpm. You could damage the tranny.
Pushing the throttle didn’t work, it doesn’t move any further in that direction. Today I decided to put the old parts back on (the TPS and the IAC). I cleared the codes, reinstalled the old IAC, cranked it. The idle came down a little, but still way too high. I cleared the codes, reinstalled the old TPS, cranked it. The idle came down a bit more, but still too high for me to feel safe shifting it into gear. Plus another, slightly different, high pitched whine. I watched a video a few days ago in which some guy said that if you have a high idle problem and you unplug the TPS and crank the engine, that if it runs smoother then you have a faulty TPS. As a last resort I tried that. The idle ran pretty rough and up and down with yet another different sounding whine. I’d hoped that putting the old parts back on would return the truck to a driveable state so I could get it to a garage, but that didn’t even work. I don’t know what to do other than have it towed to a garage. This is taking too long, I need the truck to get to work. Thanks so much tho, all of you who stuck with me. I really appreciate it.
I thinhk the whine you here is a vacuum leak that you have missed.
Yosemite
sorry i could not help more. let us know what the cause was please. i don t like it when our advice seems to be unhelpful.
Actually, if the snap-together connectors at the radiator are of the infamous “jiffy-tite” design, the bulge that’s formed into the end of the trans line makes a dandy barb for an external cooler line to be clamped on anyway; don’t cut, just slip and clamp. Those lines operate under little or no pressure in fact; the fluid pushed through the cooler is what the trans pump’s pressure relief valve is dumping back into the pan. However, all of that said, while a good external trans cooler, properly positioned and with adequate air flow, is superior to the radiator’s in-tank heat exchange loop in terms of ability to dump heat, the good ones tend to be at least as expensive as a new (decent) aftermarket radiator, and the cheap ones often come with crummy hose. (Noting that even crummy hose will usually do the job where the pressure is essentially nil, crummy hose is still crummy hose.) But trans fluid leaks into the radiator are rare, if for no other reason than the fact that the pressure in that circuit is near zero unless the return line has gotten blocked somehow. If the fluid seems cloudy but not milky (there’s a difference) and the trans fluid on the dipstick is clear and at the correct level, pull your trouble codes and look for the cause of your performance problem somewhere else, and then come back to the cooling system later. I’m betting that it’s been so long since your last cooling system flush and refill that the anticorrosion additives have given up, but that’s a silent issue for performance.
You guys were VERY helpful. I’m just too inexperienced to really know whether I’m doing something right or not. Basically I’ve been reading your advice, then searching youtube for “how to” videos. Not the best way to fix a problem that hasn’t even really been diagnosed yet. If I had the money and the time, I’d gladly keep asking you guys dumb questions. It’s been kinda fun.
I let you know what happens.
that s how I ve been fixing my jeep maury. so far so good. but you need a repair manual too, if only to tell you the proper part names. the Haynes manuals are hit and miss, depending on the writer, but they are tailored to amateurs like me
Aamco replaced the gasket and a vacuum hose. It’s running fine with no hard shifts so far. It idles even lower now than it did normally before. Thanks again for everything!
which gasket maury? hopefully a cheap one?
On the throttle body. The part was $11, the labor was $99.
i m glad you got it fixed without huge expense.
you almost had it yourself. you were in the right area anyway