I have a 1992 Cadillac Brougham Hearse (Eagle Coach Co.) with a 305 V-8 that I’ve been having the following problem with. It had gotten to where it would start up, run at idle for 10 to 15 minutes and start cutting out, sputter and then die and would not restart afterwards. The next day, go out, starts right up and same thing after idling 10-15 minutes, cuts out and dies. So, I immediately think, fuel filter and or fuel pump! So, I replace the in tank fuel pump, sending unit and the in line fuel filter. Results remained the same. I’ve even swapped out the coil, ignition control module (ICM), starter and fuel pump relays from a like car and am still having the same results. Fuel gauge is reading between ¾ and ½ tank of fuel. Wondering what to look at next? THANKS!!!
Have you tried replacing the magnetic pick-up in the distributor?
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=938378&cc=1027303&jnid=441&jpid=4
Tester
Haven’t yet. Will look into that! Thanks!!
One thing that could cause that is the fuel tank developing a vacuum lock. It is supposed to allow air into the tank as the gas is used up, but if that didn’t work, the resulting vacuum would prevent gasoline from moving to the engine. Unlikely, but should be on the list of possibles at least. You could try loosening the gas cap as a temporary test, if you can figure out a way to do that safely.
More likely, this is some kind of heat problem. Something is getting hot and failing. Could be from among the fuel pump, coil, ignition sensors, igniter, etc. One common ignition part that is heat sensitive is the crank sensor, but not sure if you 92 would have that part. But the advice above by @Tester to check the corresponding distributor sensor, which is probably how this car, without a direct crank sensor, figures out what the crank rotation angle is, that idea is spot on.
I had a problem like this and it was the Electronic Spark Control “ESC module”.
Here are the directions
Disconnect the 4 wire connector at the distributor, jump the pins on the DISTRIBUTOR SIDE connector, pins labeled A and C
This will give you what you are looking for. The system has ESC electronic Spark control which retards the timing when the knock sensor generates a signal (as it will when detonation occurs) and wiring the dizzy in this fashion cuts it out of the loop. Just be sure to recheck/adjust your base timing for a non est spec… say 12 degrees @ 500 rpm W/O vacuum hose connected to start. Then re adjust base idle.