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1992 Buick Park Ave. no crank no start

Car had been running fine and all the sudden turn the key and get nothing. Dash lights come on and there’s a click in glove box but nothing from starter. I have 0V at ignition post on solenoid with key in start position. I can short the 12V post and ignition post with screwdriver on solenoid and starter and engine crank as normal but car won’t start. Further checking I have 0V key off at ignition module, 12V with key on. A connector outside firewall between ignition switch and transmission neutral safety switch. I took this apart, it was a 7 pin with 2 of 7 blank. The red wire I had 0V key off, 12V key on. Then I dug into the steering column area. 12" or so down from the key there is a connector with a rod coming from the key area down into it. I assume this to be the ignition switch. The rod is supposed to move and is attached to a plunger that pushes into the connector. I assume this rod is attached to the key. When I turn the key the rod never moves. So I thought ok clamp some pliers on the rod and push it into the connector manually, it should make connection and start the car. When this had no results I am now at a loss as to where to go next. Further thought, how did I get the 12V readings in several locations with key on if ignition switch appears to be faulty. I’m not sure if it’s faulty or not, things don’t add up. I didn’t dig into the steering column where the key is yet because I will have to remove airbag and steering wheel to do so. I’m trying to troubleshoot around that first. If anyone can help me gain some understanding here I would be grateful to say the least. Thanks

@buickman3x

So let’s get this straight . . .

In park, when you turn the key to start position, you have 0V at the solenoid?

In neutral, when you turn the key to start position, you have 0V at the solenoid?

Yes, correct on both counts.

I think you may be looking at the dimmer switch rod and not the ignition switch rod/actuator, though I’m not sure from here at home.

Let’s back up a bit.3 Put everything back the way it’s supposed to be. When you turn your key to the “on” position and leave it there, does the security or anti-theft light come on for 5 seconds then go out or does it stay on?

You are correct about the rod, it moves with the dimmer lever.

I turn the key to on and all lights go out in a few seconds except the security light. It stays on. When I tried to start it, it would flash and then go out, I never noticed it staying on until now.

Put everything back together. Turn the key off. Try to start the car, release the key to the “on” position as if it had started, and leave the car for 10 min. Turn the key off. Try to start it, release it to “on”, leave it for 10 minutes. Turn the key off. Try to start it, release to on, leave for 10 minutes. The security light should be off and the car will start if you try.

If this works you have a broken wire at the ignition lock cylinder.

In process on 1 of 3. I noticed that when I went to start then backed off to on, the security light went out.

The 2nd and 3rd time the security light stayed on. After the 3rd time of 10 min I then tried to start it and it was still no crank.

Are you able to post an electrical schematic of the crank and ignition system?

I have printed copies that I got from an auto parts store but print is incredibly small. I could take a picture and give it a try. It is several pages. They are as follows, let me know which ones you want.
Security/Anti theft
Power distribution
Ground distribution
Instrumentation
Computer data lines

Hmm. That procedure was meant to bypass the security system, which will disable the starter and fuel supply system. If the security light is still on I think you have a problem with the anti-theft system. I’m not sure what other help I can be over the internet.