1991 Dodge Stealth - Has been sitting - Now I need to sell it

Make an offer to purchase.

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If nearby I would consider it justo be driving a 30-year-old car.
But no money, no time.

Just finished OCD oil change where the RX350 oil drips out all night.
Last evening OCD-cleaned the oil filter cartridge, new O-ring, oiled it and filled the cartridge with oil before screwing on.
Premeasured 3 quarts in each 5-qt container.
If an emergency call, just screw-on the pre-lubricated oil plug, pour in the oil and go.

Nobody asked about your oil change.

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Don’t ask and ye shall receive!
Same I wouldo withe '91 Stealth. After running thengine, let it drain overnight.
If on ramps, pre-measure the oibecause the dipstick wilbe incorrect.

And by doing that you are hurting the engine more than helping. the piston cylinder walls will be dryer. it’s better to have more lube than less on the walls to avoid scoring.

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If this is not a base model with the SOHC engine, I’d think twice about following this advice. The DOHC engines on this model are interference, and I would not trust a 33 year old timing belt and tensioner
not even for a brief test-run.

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How could he possibly do that? We have no idea if this is a base or ES, if it has the 3.0L SOHC “minivan” engine, or the DOHC NA, or DOHC turbocharged, which transmission it is equipped with, etc. For me, the most desirable configuration would be a SOHC and automatic transmission, though obviously the collector’s market would disagree.

Personally, from an ease-of-maintenance standpoint, I prefer 4-cylinder engines, and would rather have a 4-cylinder “sports car” such as a Toyota Celica, Dodge Shadow, Ford Probe, etc.

Begin with a private message, then make an offer in person. The OP doesn’t need to post all of the details as this is not a medium for selling cars.

https://www.edmunds.com/inventory/srp.html?inventorytype=used%2Ccpo&make=dodge&model=dodge|stealth&year=1991-1991&radius=6000

here is a range out there today. Like one poster said huge difference between a base model and the RT turbo with AWD/4WD. No idea how long these have been posted, but if you have a the higher end model it might be possible. I would list “as is” and see if you get any interest at all before investing (lots of $) in getting it running.

@Flasher It’s been a few days and we’re curious if you’ve made any decisions yet :smiley:

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Unfortunatly most people don’t understand the differeance between the valuations and have an unrealistic expectations

To bring a car up the top valuation requires a huge investment to bring the car to essentially “showroom new condition”.

I.e A 30 year old garage stored, low mileage car may seem like a Mint but unless it was properly stored and have had all the rubber/plastic replaced, it ain’t Show “Room Condition”.

.

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That would be up to you if you purchase the car. The OP is selling the car, not restoring the car, it only needs to be presentable for sale.

Not if you’re expecting top dollar. Pretty sure that was his point. Read the first sentence again


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The first sentence:

Has been sitting in garage since 1991. 34,000 miles.

Post # 6 states that the OP wants $15,000 for the car, if it is a R/T Turbo and stored in a building, that is half of what some others are asking.

Of course I was referring to the first sentence of the post you just replied to


I can come up with a lot of “if” scenarios too.

R/t twin turbo awd, 34000 mi

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That is the desirable trim line.
I looked on Yelp and repairpal.com for shops in Lubbock. Many to choose from. Do your homework and call the shops before having the car transported. If you choose to have all the work done prior to selling.
This car must not be started prior to timing belt changed. Provide the shop with all the details.
Suggest you write down everything about the car and what it needs before calling the shops.

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Seems like you got lucky as I’m seeing “Good” valuations on Edmunds and Hagerty in the $15,000 - $20,000 range making it potentially worthwhile to spend some money on.

The first step as Purebred commented is to “not mess it up” so before doing anything. do some research and locate a shop that’s familiar and competent to work on the car and the “right shop” will be able to provide towing information.

They should also be able to provide you with an estimate of the necessary repair costs to bring it up to the various condition levels and you should expect it to cost you several hundred dollars for their time to do a through inspection.

At this point and understanding the difference between the various Condition levels, you may want to contact the local Owners Club to get an appraisal, a complete understanding of the associated costs to reach a given level and if you decide to sell it, suggestions on the best sales outlets .

And BTW, it’s very important to save and make copies of any documentation, maintenance repair records and photos you have on the car. For example, a copy of the title showing a one owner car can significantly increase your sale price.

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Are you interested in spending the money needed to get this in good condition? It could be a few thousand $. I’d first find out what it would be worth as-is, where-is. You can do that a couple of ways: Put it up for auction on Ebay, with a high reserve price, like the $15,000 you’d like to get. If it sells, great, if not you’ll have an idea what it’s worth. Before going to that trouble I’d join some Mitsubishi 3000GT forums, check out their for sale posts. Here’s one I found:
Cars For Sale | Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum (3si.org)
One of the listings has an educational tale, guy with a Stealth R/T wanting to sell, had put $15,000 into trying to get it to run right. Not that you’d do that, but know that once you start trying to fix an old car it can get out of hand quick.

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Thank you

Yeah a 34K mile unmolested 100% stock Twin Turbo AWD/AWS could bring some good money from the right person
 I (again) would put it on the market as is (maybe replace the timing belt only and oil change just so the buyer can hear it run), if it sells great, more money in your pocket, if not, then put some money in it to make it a driver again

Again, if selling as is, that also means as is with the OEM timing belt, so don’t let anyone start it


But I would almost bet it will sell as is