For what it’s worth, Haynes and Chiltons both have multiple errors in them. It’s not confined to one make of car either. While it’s not as common, sometimes even factory service manuals have errors.
About 10 years ago I was beating my head on the wall trying to figure out why an A/C compressor on a Mitsubishi would not engage. The Haynes wiring diagram did not quite match the actual car so I went to ALLDATA.
So what do I find on ALLDATA? A scan of the incorrect wiring diagram from the Haynes manual.
I emailed ALLDATA and told them about this.
Their response was that the diagram is correct and “someone must have altered the wiring on the car”.
That statement is unequivocally, 100% dead wrong also…
Been there…Done That @ok4450 … You are certainly not alone there. I too have been at the mercy of incorrect…or just as bad…incomplete procedural information. When you are new at something and have a great need or desire to get it right AND you buck up for actual instructions…that is a bad time to be let down. I mean seriously…how many times do guys admit or ask for directions? Then we finally DO…and look what can happen. Hahaha… Thats life I suppose.
I got truly stuck only about 2x…the other times I figured it out on my own…and seriously wanted to share the info and let them know they goofed, because they HAD…I wanted to share what they should have instructed instead. One of the reasons I actually sought employment at Chilton as a Young Buck.
Oh well…its not exactly an “original sin” now is it? and it will happen again…hopefully not to me.
I got it running pretty well today. Starts great idles great. Took it for a road test, started well then started running a little crappy. Would run better with choke on. Got it back home up to the driveway where it stalled. Pushed it the rest of the way. Seen a leak on the gas line, pretty minor I think. It did seem like it was not getting enough gas, and I think that was the only problem. Hoping so. Should fix the line tomorrow or next.
Sounds like you were simply running the bowls too low… Fix leaky and re-ridey… Bet she is just fine.
I would like you to check on your timing now that you removed slack in the T chain…unless the T chain adjuster is “active” Some are some arent and I dont recall which is which on what bike anymore…no need to commit that to memory. Just a thought… I think your current issue is fueling obviously. Fix that…and just take a peeky at the CDi timing mark…it may need minute adjustment.
Many CDi’s do not have the adjustable plate A Lah the old Point system… Ive found the need for this over many machines…and the only way I could acheive this was with a Dremel and a Carbide bit…slot the screw holes and Viola …adjustability. Just a thought…if she runs fine…thats good enough for me. Just passing on some info
It was running good today. Went for a few miles. The battery was going bad. One of those junk Fleet Farm ones that mostly last 2 seasons. I was lucky that it was under a year old so I got a free new one today. Mainly now is I have to take the tire in to get changed, otherwise it is pretty much ready for summer.
Your bikes rims are pretty simple affairs…not tubeless like the ones I have. If you have a simple manual bead breaker…and you may not even need that…tire swaps are not too bad manual style.
Ever use large zip ties to remove a tire? The work on tube and tubeless wheels…the tire basically just slides off after you put about six large zip ties on it…you sneak them under the bead on one side then thru to the other and ZIP…repeat…then you pry in two places and the whole tire is off
It is tubeless. I broke the bead on it. I do that by using one of the really high jacks. I put the bottom on the tire and put the jack against something so when it starts raising it pushes against the bead. Works great. I did attempt to remove the tire with pry bars but it was really hard and think if I were to get it out would scratch it up pretty good. So I will just take it somewhere. The zip ties sounds interesting.