That makes it an all wheel drive compressor, @ok4450. Who could ask for more?
Next thing will be the compressor head gasket giving up… 
Mayby an extended warranty can be negotiated, @ok4450 Get that lady with the 2004 model to give you some back up. Nothing ventured-nothing gained.
I would have provided the owners manual to the guy that bought mine so I have no manual. I do have my notes though from my maintenance book. I would have followed the manual meticulously and used regular 10W40.
Here’s my notes: bought 8/79 for $109 at Menards. Model 5KC47KR319S, 1/2 HP, 2.8 CFM, 7 1/2 gallon tank. Change oil at 100 hours, 10W40, 6 ounces to fill. Sold it 6/90 for $85. Replaced the check valve and unloader valve and filter. Bought the parts at Lathrop Paint in MPLS who were CH repair facility at the time. I think if you check farm stores or others, parts from other brands could be made to work. They are pretty simple devices and just essentially a small engine without the valves and combustion.
Somewhat OT I suppose @RodKnox, but I’m not convinced that Subaru paid any of the repair bill on her 2004.
It usually works like this; to use an easy to follow example.
Customer Pay - 200 dollars.
Warranty pay - 100 dollars.
Subaru offers 1/3 so roughly 135 dollars paid by customer.
The only difference is that the dealer is making more than warranty reimbursement and not full customer pay rates. The customer thinks they got a deal though.
Too many bad dealings with SOA for me to trust them. One of their denials almost killed me when the seat back broke in half and I found myself lying flat on my back at 75 MPH on the turnpike while staring straight up at the dome light…
ok4450 … Water gets in the tank? Thanks, I was wondering why there’s a drain plug on the underneath side of the tank. That explains it. I’ll have to apply some thread un-rusting fluid and let it soak for a couple days, then I’ll see if I’m able to undo that plug.
TSM … I found those same documents about the fl3201. So far haven’t found a user or owner’s manual for it, but there are user/owner’s manual available for more recent versions which are probably good enough. I think I found those (using Google) at a site that started with “jakes” or something like that. Like RodKnox says above, those manuals say to use special purpose SAE 30 compressor oil.
Yep, most all compressors with tanks have drains because compressing the air typically creates some condensation.
@TheSameMountainBike … I have one of those old Singer sewing machines too. The kind you operate with a foot trundle (or is the word treadle?). Anyway, it is foot powered, no electricity. To me this seems like a good idea. Combining electricity with sharp needles oscillating near my fingers seems a bad idea … lol … anyway, getting that old sewing machine working again is on my project list. Thanks for the heads up that the manual pdf is probably available from Singer.
I’m not certain what the correct word is.
The one my mom gave me was sold as a portable electric machine, but it was actually a foot powered machine with a bracket mounted on the side and an AC motor and pulleys added. And I’ll tell you, that is a powerful machine. It’ll sew through thick leather without even recognizing the added load, even at slow speeds. I think in those days they overpowered everything just to be sure it had sufficient power.
Good luck with yours. I’d recommend downloading the operating manual, 'cause they thread up differently than modern machines. In my case the rubber drive belt, a huge O-ring, needs to be manually moved to a different pulley.
By the way, I’m thinking of getting a trundle (?) base to make a manual wood lathe out of. We old people with lots of time on out hands do strange things like this.
FWIT, my 1/2 hp Sears compressor is filled to overflow the fill nozzle (like most manual transmissions and rear ends). This nozzle is about 1" below the centerline of the crankcase.
Thanks @insightful, I took a look at the relationship between the fill hole and the crankshaft, and mine is the same, about 1" below the CL of the crankshaft. I think you are right, that’s how it must work, just like a rear differential in a truck, you just put oil in until it starts to overflow the fill hole.
In your post above, I’m assuming you meant the CL of the “crankshaft”, not “crankcase”.
Yes,“crankshaft” is also correct. On mine, the horizontal midline of the circular crankcase goes through the centerline of the crankshaft.