Did it come with an instruction manual? That might be a good way to learn also…
I’m reading it now. Thanks. I have to drive someone to LAX this morning, so after that, I’ll keep the gas tank 1/4-3/4 after that. I think giving me that info was the best way to fix the incomplete monitors issue. Thank you & thanks to everyone for al the help. Sorry for making this a huge thread, but it might help someone else in the future.
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I went back & pressed every option on the scan tool & found it. In Module $07E8- Evaporative system Monitoring: INC. The rest are all either OK or N/A.
You stated earlier that there were no fault codes, why can’t you use the vehicle with an incomplete monitor? The monitors will complete on their own in time.
I drive it all the time. I was just saying I always fill up the tank, which might be why the final code won’t clear. From today’s readings:
Distance Travelled While MIL is Activated : 0 miles
Number of warm-ups since diagnostic codes cleared: 32
Distance since diagnostic codes cleared: 761 miles
Control module voltage: 11.849 volts
Code reader must be British since it has traveled with 2 L’s
Found this just to add to what I already said about the tank fuel level…
if the evap monitor is not ready, verify that your fuel cap is tight and the level of fuel is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. if all the other monitors are ready, then do a couple more “cold” starts.
Thank you. I just returned from LAX & I’m between 1/4 & 3/4 tank. I’ll continue what that page says & let you know.
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For the 06 Ion w/2 L engine, from what I see, 3 or more drive cycles w/at least 17 hours between each, each start the engine coolant temp must be close to ambient, barometric pressure must be within stict limits, likewise for the engine coolant temp, intake air temp, fuel level, battery voltage, estimated ambient temp at end of drive cycle (how would this be known?) , engine coolant at shutdown.
All in all, the evap system readiness monitor problem, it’s a bit of a conundrum for the car owner. You’d need a Ph.D. in readiness monitors to ever figure it out by the looks of it … lol …
Only guess I can come up with is you aren’t letting the car rest long enough between drives. Just because you own it doesn’t mean you can drive it when you want to.
I thought I wasn’t driving it enough. Some days I don’t drive it at all. I last drove it 20 hours ago (at least that’s what my post said when I got home from LAX), so I’ll start it soon & drive it till it warms up. Of course I will let you know what happens.
Why are you concerned about the emission monitors? The evaporative emission system monitor is easily aborted when not driven in a proper manner, seems like you are just wasting fuel trying to reach this goal.
Isn’t it more important to find out if there is an issue with the car? I’m waiting till my 1:30pm appointment before driving the car, since it will be 25 hours after the last drive cycle. We all determined there is no issue with the thermostat.
I concur w/OP’s philosophy , if evap system monitor continually fails to complete, I’d want to know the reason. This might be indicating a serious problem that needs immediate correction, otherwise expensive damage to engine components possible. So what to do? …
hmmm … maybe try driving your Ion every day, for three days in a row, keeping gas tank at around 1/2 full for the entirety of all 3 drives, and a long enough drive each time that coolant reaches normal operating temperature; might be useful at end of each drive to allow engine to idle in driveway for 15 minutes, so the coolant gets as hot as allowed by the engine compartment fan system, before turning off. Also make sure the Ion rests at least 17 hours in between drives, completely unused, doors never opened. Good idea to verify w/scan tool the coolant temp sensor, intake air temp sensor, fuel level sensor, time clock, and atmospheric pressure sensor are all accurate.
This morning the meter was in the green. All monitors have completed. Thanks to @George_San_Jose1 @Nevada_545 @davesmopar @old_mopar_guy @asemaster . The entire issue was due to always keeping the gas tank full. Another neighbor who had a similar issue, also had hers in the green today. I told her to keep her car 1/4 to 3/4 full. Can’t be a coincidence, so that was the fix. When I feel like getting into my next question with the car, I’ll see what everyone has to say. Thanks to cartalk.com for creating this site. My philosophy with a car is similar to that of the human body. Once you open it up to fix something, then other things can go awry. That’s why I didn’t immediately change the thermostat.
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The two observations are not related, you will likely see the thermostat fault again when you drive the vehicle in cooler weather.
It started in September of last year, the hottest month for my area, so temperature should not have anything to do with it. I reset it after fixing something else on the car.