Fair point. But before I install a new thermostat, I do the same thing, put it in a pot of hot water to check its function too. I’ve had new ones fail right out of the box. In my case that wouldn’t be saving much trouble. Usually once the symptoms get so obvious I decide to remove an old thermostat for a look-see, it’s so warped and corroded I don’t even bother to test it.
Coolant got up to 183F when the fan turned on. Seems like it’s working fine, right? Meter said it’s been over 700 miles since code was reset & still one pending code.
In case you don’t see my reply to the other guy, I’m repeating it again, if this site will let me (2nd try)… Coolant got up to 183F when the fan turned on. Seems like it’s working fine, right? Meter said it’s been over 700 miles since code was reset & still one pending code.
That seems correct. Some cars have two fans, some cars have fans w/two speeds, so it might be a little more complicated than that. But by the evidence presented, the engine fan seems to be working correctly. Do you know what the pending code number is? If you need further assistance here, since the thread is getting long, suggest to summarize what has happened to this point and the pending code number. & How are you determining the coolant temperature?
When the vehicle is parked and idling, the cooling system will reach operating temperature sooner or later even with a failing thermostat. What is the cooling system temperature while driving 45 mph? How long does it take to reach operating temperature while driving? These are the things the computer is analyzing.
Living in southern California and having a thermostat that doesn’t close properly doesn’t matter much unless it causes the check engine light to illuminate, it doesn’t get cold enough in Los Angeles to keep the engine from getting warm.
I drove to the freeway, which took less than 5 minutes. The coolant was at 179 at the on-ramp. Stayed 179-181 for ~5 minutes. Then went up to 185-186. Stayed there till exiting the freeway & got up to 192. Same in reverse on the way home (20-25 minutes each way). Got up to 192 climbing a small hill on the freeway coming home. Sill one code in “monitor incomplete.” I have driven over 750 miles since I cleared the code. Seems like a working thermostat, right?
An engine that warms from cold to 179 F in 5 minutes is normal.
What is that code?
Yes.
The “monitor incomplete” code refers to the emissions testing readiness monitors. With OBD II technology ( model years 1995+, like yours) the car’s computer self-tests the emissions system components as you drive. It takes a certain amount of time and miles (surprisingly it seems nobody knows exactly how much … lol… ) for the computer to complete each test. A “monitor incomplete” codes says one of the tests has started, but hasn’t yet completed. Once it complete that code will go out, and if the test passes, good to go. If the test doesn’t pass the check engine light will turn on and they’ll be another diagnostic code posted in computer memory.
Is that displayed in “code”, or English?
It takes me 5 miles to complete all monitors except evaporative emission test, that requires an overnight cool down.
Does that apply to an 06 Saturn Ion?
Here is exactly what the screen states:
MIL Status OFF
Codes Found 0
Monitors N/A 2
Monitors OK 7
Monitors INC 1
So you are waiting on that readiness monitor to reset before all 8 are set, does it say which monitor has not set yet???
But until that one sets you don’t know for sure if it will kick the check engine light back on or not…
No, it doesn’t say which one, just what I listed. It’s been almost 800 miles & almost a month since it reset. How much longer can it take?
Why dont you get a better scan tool that will display actual information rather than these silly color codes?
I did switch from the $30 tool to the $800 Autel tablet tool, which is why I was able to see my engine temperature during my drive over the weekend. It shows nothing is wrong. Only one monitor incomplete. I just rechecked & clicked on it & it didn’t show any more information than just “Monitors INC 1”.
I meant to send my last reply to you old_mopar_guy, not davesmopar, sorry.
I did switch from the $30 tool to the $800 Autel tablet tool, which is why I was able to see my engine temperature during my drive over the weekend. It shows nothing is wrong. Only one monitor incomplete. I just rechecked & clicked on it & it didn’t show any more information than just “Monitors INC 1”.
It is difficult for me to believe that an $800 Autel tool will not tell you which monitors are incomplete.
Hopefully @Nevada_545 will chime in with some recommendations. Says above to know how to complete all the monitors in just 5 minutes.
Not knowing which monitor is not setting it could be a lot of things but I know some vehicles that I have seen depending on which monitor it is again you need to make sure you don’t drop below 1/4 tank of gas but don’t fill up past 3/4 tank of gas for some evap systems to complete…
Try going to a O’Reilly or Advanced auto parts and use there scanner, they will normally show which monitor is not reading…
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Other than fooling with it when I bought the Autel MaxiDas, I have never needed to use it before. Always so simple to plug in the cheap one & get an immediate reading. It did take me 20 minutes to find where the coolant temperature reading was, so it’s possible it would tell me if I knew where to look. I did go back and try clicking on the INC & nothing happened. The “other” Dodge guy might have my answer as to why it’s taking so long. I always fill up the gas tank, so it might not get to under 3/4 tank enough times to clear the code.