We shouldn’t even bother trying to help this guy . . .
First of all, he’s essentially a troll
And second of all, he’s not capable of and/or willing to listen to advice, following instructions and doing things the correct way, as far as car repairs and maintenance go
I gave up long ago. He’s just craves attention. His completely debunked claim about driving over 100mph to deliver blood on overly inflated tires is his way of getting attention.
Doubtful any contaminants in paper towels to be used wet, barehanded.
Plug pristine.
But wouldike one of those toilet paper filters an engineer used in his old Suburban.
Had to change oibased upon mileage because it always looked new.
One so-called engineer without little or no controlled study is NOT what any engineer would call VALID. You need multiple controlled studies to make any conclusion on how effective something like that would be. This is how conspiracy theory crap gets started. Conspiracy idiots grab onto ONE possibly flawed study and use it as if it’s FACT.
Love starting conspiracy theories!
The oil ihis Suburban always looked clean.
After I removed the toilet paperoll, I wanted to unroll it to see what it caught. Wanted also to take a magneto it but never did either. Too messy.
These toilet paper filters are still available, I believe.
With a CVT transmission I would not ignore maintenance. Our Nissan failed at 70k.
Two ways I have done tranny drain and fills are if there is a drain plug I would drain into a pan and measure precisely the amount and replace that with new. If there is no drain plug I have used an extractor and sucked it out of the fill opening. Same thing measure exactly to the ounce and replace.
Some cars don’t have dip sticks so easy to just measure.
Make sure the temperatures of the removed and the new fluid are the same so the volume is equal.
you can begin yearly drain and fills as soon as 30k miles but definitely at 60k.
So much for their “Lifetime transmission fluid in their sealed transmission.”
Depends on the def’n of “lifetime”. If “lifetime” means 100k miles, the trans fluid will probably last that long without needing changing. Then you just buy a new car. Works out for everyone, the owner gets a new car after 100K miles, and for the auto manufacturers, well they are in the business of selling cars.
Maybe you should stop calling it “Lifetime” transmission fluid.
Toyota calls it World Standard automatic transmission fluid.
How many miles do you drive a year? What does the manual specify for ‘extreme service’ change interval?
Here it is, however long it takes to get to 60k (not “lifetime”):
SPECIAL DRIVING CONDITIONS
Also recommended when driving while towing, using a car-top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading:
65k/year. Mostly highway and Interstate highway miles.
Always gentle accelerations except during emergency transports when a little more “aggressive” throttle at red intersections to get out of everyone’s way.
Then change it every year. High speed = extreme service.
This is your third RX, how often did you change the transmission fluid in the other two?
75k
Transmi$$ion shop said it always looked good.
Luckily I can now drain and refill the 2023 RX350 with Toyota World Standard ATF.
Must figure out how to drain and refill the differentials.
Back onto the plastic ramps on the sloping down driveway so the vehicle wilbe level and I can get under?
(Wish that I could jackhammer out a 3’ by 6’ rectangle in the garage floor cement so that I could fit under the level vehicle.) Years ago saw a 1950’s house with a basement door and steps up to ground level. Just park over the steps and do all the work with plenty of room. Don’t khow they drained water.
Seems easier to just raise all 4 wheels with jack-stands. It’s probably possible to jack up both front or both rear at the same time using a floor jack, works for my Corolla anyway. If you want the vehicle higher than jack-stands allow, could be done w/2 sets of wheel ramps You’d drive the front wheels onto the first set, then jack the rear end enough to slide the second set under the rear wheels.
I do like the alternate way of thinking tho, instead of moving the car up, move yourself down. Caution is in order though, first the pit can be a safety hazard, second your city may code not allow you to construct a pit.
You can always put the vehicle up on 4 ramps in the garage, I jack the car up one end at a time and just slide the ramps under both ends of the car when needed… as George mentioned above…
Thank you, both.
Yes, too much trouble and I’d also have to cut through rebar.
Will just buy two more plastic ramps from Walmart.
(I’ve done enough work in the gutter with right wheels on the sidewalk.)
Building Code? We don’ need no stinkin’ building code. (Until we try to sell the house.)
They would make me remove the laundry tub I.nstalled next to the work bench in the garage - so useful especially with handheld sprayer.
And the New Orleans natural gas lamp I.nstalled in the living room where we see and enjoy it. Turned off when not present. On the second floor ceiling almost above the illegalamp is a combustible gas/smoke alarm and carbon monoxide alarms on both levels.
You aren’t alone. I use that same technique to lube my truck’s driveshaft … lol …
