I also suggest that while you’re at it, check all of your brake lines for leaks and/or corrosion. Pay special attention to the rubber hoses at each wheel. Check for age-related cracking of the outer casing. While you’re at each wheel, a little squirt of ‘rust buster’ like Knock-'Er-Loose on the bleeder screws will help reduce the strain needed to loosen those bleeder screws. If the car is 10+ years old and you don’t know if the bleeders have ever been used, this is a very useful tip. It might be a good idea to change out your brake fluid since the vehicle is 10+ years old. Be sure to use the proper brake fluid. I think most '86 vintage vehicles used DOT-3 fluid but check a manual (Chilton’s or Haynes) or your auto parts store to make sure. A lot of vehicles have this info stamped or printed on the cover of the master cylinder. If you find that you’re getting some crud out of the old fluid, you can flush it with denatured alcohol but crud is a rare occurrence unless you have a leak in the system or moisture got into the system, usually through the fill cap on the master cylinder. It’s typically a two-person job, but experienced people know how to make it a one-person deal. Again, Haynes or Chilton helps in this area. Your parts store just might have a tech sheet that they’ll print out for you as changing and flushing brake systems is a “general” service function. Use the type of brake fluid specified. (So fordman owns a Chevy? That’s interesting!). Just wondering. Does that engine have a carb or a T.B.I. (throttle body injectors)?