What kind of "car" is good for towing a boat?

You need more information. Are you planning on using just one boat ramp (OK 90% of the time). Hang out at the boat rmp and take a look at what vehicles are handling the job well and what vehicles are having trouble.

Go into the marina and ask the people operating the ramp what problems they see and what cars they would like you to use to launch a boat at their ramp.

In short you will get better answers from people that are more closely involved with doing what you want to do.

So the Mustang is a wheel spinner,ask yourself what specification puts the Mustang in wheel spinner class and avoid this quality in your perspective boat launching vehicles.

RWD is great for towing and recommended especially for boats. It used to be that framed vehicles were better, but that’s blurred now. The cheapest I can think of that would work on a slippery boat ramp is a 2wd/rwd compact truck with a limited slip rear differential which I used for years carting boats of the weight you stated. It will give you all the traction you need and the added safety you can’t get with fwd. An AWD Subaru/RAV4/CRV for occasional towing would be acceptable. 4 wd drive is better traction wise, but unless you really need it otherwise, is an unnecessary expense. Limited slip is actually better than part time 4 wd in some traction situations, especially climbing hills. Locking two rear wheels when the center of gravity shifts to the rear going up hill is sometimes better then engaging one wheel on front and one on back which is the case with part time and most AWD w/o traction control. I know this with experience driving trucks and vans and Tractor/truck makers knew this for years.

A used performance rwd car with limited slip is another option; with the right tires of course. A RWD Mustang has potential with that add on.

On this site it says a 2005 Subaru Outback would be fine for towing… What about a year 2000 model?

http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top10/102426/article.html

I don’t know how much trailers weigh, but the boat is 900 lbs I believe.

You’re now stretching the capability of the car when you include trailer and gear…I’d go the 2wd truck route and not worry. They’re cheap used.

The outback can tow 3 lbs.

So I guess it’s between the Honda crv and outback.

Great advice , as the wet end of the ramp is often covered with moss and other wet-all-the-time goo.
Maybe the TIRES are key with rear drive cars under these conditions ?

Ok afar kind of pick ups are there for under 10k?

Lots of them. :stuck_out_tongue:
A v8 F-150 would be ideal since it’d have more power than you’d need, which is a good thing with towing. Can probably pick up a fairly new one for under 10k. A v6 Ranger would also be a good choice.

I’m starting to really like the Dodge Dakota 4x4 Quad Cab… Looks awesome

And after market rear limited slips for much cheaper 2wd models if they didn’t come with it, make a much more comfortable vehicle you could get in used extended cab versions for much less money used. 4wd is a useless add on if you’re not really dependent upon it regularly, for use that a limited slip can handle with ease without added operating expense and loss of ride comfort in compact to moderate trucks (like a Dakota/Ranger). These trucks are very carlike in ride, comfort and handling in two wheel drive.

My dad had a Dokota pickup v8. Towed a 30 foot camping trailer effortlessly.

I only said I wanted 4x4 for snow. Im in NJ. Im sick and tired of winters without a good snow vehicle.

I see some for 8k but they have 100k miles on it… Little high for me.

Hmm Dakota is hard to find under 100k miles.

What’s the mpg?

NJ…is not real snow ctry IMHO. Most there can do fine with winter tires. The biggest mistake people make, is buying 4x4s for winter instead of snow tires. All that will do is “accelerate” your chances of having an accident. 4x4s need good winter tires MORE than 2wd drives because of the higher speed people take them in snow.

Yes, 4x4 s look cooler and for me, that’s a good enough reason to buy them if properly used for other purposes.

Good luck. NJ should have plenty of little used 4x4s out there.

I had a rwd 4cyl 2003 ranger for a 1400 lb boat and trailer, 17’, fiberglass 90 horse. I think it was 2.3 or 2.6 engine, manual tranny. Tongue weight is a factor that you should consider. A few times I’d have 4 or people sit in the bed for traction at pea gravel or sand launches, but never had a problem at a concrete launch in spite of weeds and algae.

I think I’m going to do my best finding a Dodge Dakota. They have sold for around 6-8k with very decent mileage on it… Quad cab as well. So, I think I should keep looking.

Look on craigslist…Look on Phoenix, AZ craigslist if you want a rust-free one…For around 3-4 grand…

My Crown Vic pulls a 1500 pound sailboat up a steep, slippery ramp no problems. Never spins a wheel…

Cars do not make good towing vehicles because they were designed to carry their own weight and not much more. They are also unibody where the body and frame are one. The torquing action will bend and twist the body. A truck is body on frame so the frame is taking the torque. With a small boat and a full sized car however, you should be OK. The Mustang is too light.

You want rear wheel drive or four wheel drive. Front wheel drive doesn’t work well with trailers because a) the weight of the trailer lifts weight off the drive axle and b) acceleration also lifts weight from the front wheels.

Car transmissions aren’t designed to pull a trailer for extended periods, they will overheat and wear out faster. For local hauls down to the lake, you’re OK, but if you’re going to pull on long trips you should get a transmission cooler added.

More than pulling, think about stopping all that weight. Trailers for small boats don’t have brakes. On wet pavement you’re going skiing, like it or not. Get good quality tires, check the brakes often and leave a LOT of room between you and the car in front of you. (Now you’ll understand why you shouldn’t nose dive in front of cars with trailers.)

I pulled a 2400 lb rig with a 2 wheel drive, std transmission, 6 cylinder Toyota pickup for over 150,000 miles and never had problems getting up highland reservoir ramps, gravel or concrete. If the rear wheel start to spin, slowly apply the emergency brake. The brake will apply equal pressure to both wheels and power will be transferred from the spinning wheel to the non spinning wheel. You can also put your overweight brother on the right rear of the pickup; works for me. When you gain momentum, release the brake.

Learn to back up with the boat BEFORE going to the boat ramp. When you do go to the ramp, take off the tie downs, load the boat, etc before getting on the ramp. Practice ramp courtesy. You’ll appreciate it when you’re sitting in the sun in the water waiting for your tow vehicle.

Good luck! See you on the water.

I found a 2005 Dakota 4x4 quad cab with 71k miles on it. The dealer wants 12k for it.

Instead of writing up the small incidents the truck had. Here’s a link to the two minor accidents it had.

http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?vin=-65|-108|66|-114|-105|-98|-108|99|71|18|57|0|-111|24|13|-98|66|87|48|62|29|-8|-88|99&partner=ATD_W

A dealer is selling the truck.

I still think after a FULL inspection it could still be a good deal for that price. Can anyone chime in please?

For $12K you can get an awfully good compact/full size 2wd with fewer miles. I’m not a Dakota fan with that mileage especially in 4 wd where the additional components will be questionable. Use 4wd a lot and you have wear problems. Don’t use it enough and you still may have problems due to lack of lubrication. Too many other good F150s, Tundas/Tacomas in 2wd you could modify with limited slip if not have it already, that would be cheaper, more economical, reliable and better serve your light towing needs.
Best of luck though with what ever you choose. At least it’s a truck.