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Ford Taurus Rear disc brakes

I'm having problems retracting the rear caliper pistons on a 2005 Ford Taurus. I have the brake cable disconnected, the caliper pivoted on the lower bolt and can get the piston to turn (clockwise) but it will not go into the bore. A photo I have of what seems to be the factory tool appears to put pressure on the piston as it turns, but when I do that, the piston tends to bind as I turn it. How many turns are necessary to get the piston to bottom?

What a way to spend Thanksgiving!

Comments

  • edited November 2007
    If you still have one of the old brake pads, place it between the tool and the caliper piston when you use the tool. This puts equal pressure on the whole piston instead of just one side or the other. You shouldn't have to turn the piston to get it back into the bore. It's not necessary. It should push straight in. If you don't have the old pads still then get something else that is similar and won't bend when you put pressure on it.
  • edited November 2007
    I think he's talking about a design where the self-adjusting parking brakes are part of the real caliper and they have to be adjusted out to make room for the new pads. I don't know the details of how to retract the caliper on your car.
  • edited November 2007
    You do not put pressure on the piston when you turn the tool. You should not even detach the parking cable. just use the tool to twist the piston back to the reset position. It should take about 10 revolutions or more, depending on how far out the piston is.
  • edited November 2007
    Thanks for the suggestions. I was finally able to do it. I was using an OEM Industrial piston compressor and it was putting uneven pressure on the piston. I had to grind a fair amont of material off it before it was centered on the piston. According to the HAYNES, I did have to disconnect the cable and turn the piston, both of which I did. The LISLE tool I had that was supposed to fit did not, so I had to use a pair of water-pump pliers initially to get it turning until I could get it far enough in to use the LISLE tool. Bunged the outer edge of the piston a little with the pliers, but not the sealing surface. I think, after this, I could design a much more effective tool. Perhaps I can sell it to LISLE or OEM Industrial. Now for the turkey!
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