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2003 Toyota Camry, No heat

I recently moved from TX to MN and it's getting cold enough to need heat in my car. Well I've turned it on and nothing but cold air comes out. I've check my coolant level and it was getting close to low, so i added more and i've checked the fuses and they look good. So any ideas on what it could be or how i can fix it?


  • Is air at least moving? The heat control lever, is that electronic or just a slider?
  • Air is moving, it's not the blower/fan and it's electric
  • Did you check the coolant level in the radiator, or just the overflow reservoir?
  • How low was the coolant? Are you still loosing coolant or just a one time minimal loss?

    Any work on the cooling system in the last year (radiator, water pump etc)?

    Have you checked the floors on the car? No watery stuff, no foul smell in the car, the windshield is clean inside?

    Check the engine bay for coolant leak. In you particular car (if it is the 4 cylinder), check the back side of the cylinder head for coolant leak and also the engine oil condition.
  • If the answer to all of the above questions is no, then it is likely that the thermostat is stuck in the open position (where it is supposed to be stuck if it's broken) and needs to be replaced. You will probably have to take it to a mechanic if you have not done it yourself before.
  • both radiator and reservoir level are back to full, the reservoir was down to half when i added more to it. No water stuff on the floor, or smell and windshield is clean. No repair work that i know of in the last year, I bought the car used in January of 2012. It did every now and then have like a water sound by the glove box and some clicking noises that have now stopped as well.
  • Water sounds usually mean air pockets in the system (heating/cooling), these usually go away on their own, sometimes need to be purged. The clicking sound is usually from a valve/vacuum operated door. I believe that is where your problem is.
  • Thanks galant. How do i fix this?
  • This doesn't work w/every make & model, but air can often be purged from a cooling system by simply opening the radiator cap and idling the engine until the top radiator hose becomes hot to the touch. Turn the heat control valve to "full hot" first. When the engine coolant becomes hot enough, the thermostat opens, and water pours into the top of the radiator from the engine. The air in the cooling system is often purged during this process. Don't overdo it, as the coolant can overflow the radiator, and/or the engine can overheat, if you let the engine idle too long with the radiator cap off.

    Don't walk away from the car during this process. This should take no longer than 10-15 minutes for the thermostat to turn on at idle. You need to keep an eye on the radiator to see if it is overflowing, and you need to keep an eye on the coolant temp guage on the dash. If you look carefully, once the thermostat turns on, you should be able to see water entering the radiator by looking in the hole normally covered by the radiator cap. You might need a flashlight for this. Watch the temp guage on the dash while you do this. If no water ever seems to be entering the radiator, or if the engine overheats, goes beyond 2/3 full scale on the dash temp guage, stop the engine. You probably have a faulty thermostat.

    If the thermostat seems ok and the air seems to have been purged, you could have a faulty temp control valve, or one of the venting doors for the heating system isn't working. Or it could be the heat exchange unit itself. Hope it isn't that. Expensive.

    One more thing: Don't add cold coolant to a hot engine. This can crack the block or the head or the radiator. Wait for the engine to cool down first.
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