That might work for an HC emissions (tail pipe hydrocarbon emission test) failure, or maybe even for CO or NOX tail-pipe problems; but I’m guessing that method wouldn’t help w/the cat or evap system. I’ve used fuel-system chemical cleaning to assist my Corolla to pass Calif’s HC spec. It does seem to help improve the tail pipe measurements slightly. For a 2000 model year, may not even require tailpipe tests.
I don’t think the oil consumption is what damaged your cat. Aftermarket gadget, so It may have just pooped out with 3 years of use, or more likely, there’s some sort of fuel mixture problem.
I was told that my engine is burning oil and that’s what damaged my cat.
As far as I know, the car doesn’t have an EVAP problem. I believe it just switched to not ready after I cleared the P0420 code.
Instead of using fuel injector cleaner, I’ll try Pure Lacquer Thinner. Scotty Kilmer recommends this specifically for the cat/P0420 code.
I’ll just give it a shot and let you all know how it goes. If that doesn’t work, Scotty recommends disconnecting the cat and letting it soak in water and detergent overnight.
Sorry, misunderstood the EVAP issue isn’t an actual EVAP system failure, but that the EVAP readiness monitor is not complete. Once you get it set to complete, be sure not to disconnect the battery or clear an evap diagnostic code with a scanner, b/c that will set it back to incomplete.
No experience with the water/detergent soaking the cat technique, but I’m guessing that is likely just wishful thinking, will take a lot of time & effort with little chance of gain. The fuel injector cleaner seems worth a go, doesn’t cost much or take much time, and might help. Plus your fuel injectors will be cleaner in any event. I’d recommend a fuel trim test. Not overly expensive, done w/a shop scanner is all. Once you get the results , post them here for more ideas. Best of luck.
As long as both are spec’d for the engine, threads correct etc, I’d choose the top one myself. PCV valve’s are pretty simple devices and are not a common failure item by reports here. They are designed to only pass a small amount of flow at engine idle, but more flow at higher rpms. Inside there’s just a spring, valve, & seat. Both my Corolla and truck use a slightly different style, held to engine by a grommet only. To test I just pull the hose and PCV valve from the grommet, keeping PCV valve attached to hose, and make sure I feel a robust vacuum from the end of the valve when the engine is idling. I also test by shaking. If shaking doesn’t produce a noticeable rattle I’ll either clean it or replace. I think in 50 years of diy’er maintenance, I’ve only had to replace one PCV valve. In that case valve was allowing too much air to pass at idle, creating vacuum leak symptoms.
A gunked-up PCV valve can definitely increase oil consumption, so installing a new one–coupled with cleaning out the hose leading to the PCV valve–is a good idea, and may help to a certain extent. But, as to stopping a badly worn engine from burning oil… no.
Good news, guys! I cleared the P0420 code and then I tried Scotty Kilmer’s method for cleaning the catalytic converter (using a gallon of Lacquer Thinner and driving 150 miles at highway speeds). My check engine light didn’t return for the entire 150 mile ride!
In the past the CEL would always come back on within 20 miles of driving.
The Catalyst monitor is still not set though. I’m guessing that the PCM is still running tests?
What are your guys’ thoughts?
As soon as that monitor is ready, I’m going for inspection.
