Why must I buy more tools just to replace brake pads?

Ford service said they commonly have to take sledge hammers to knock rotors loose.
Sounds like Ford has a problem they are unwilling to fix.

FYI: Brake Pad Wear Indicators (What You Call Squealers) Are Usually Only On Outboard Brake Pads. Therefore, Tires Would Still Need To Be Removed For A Proper Brake Inspection, “Squealers” Or No “Squealers”.

I don’t know where you’re getting your socket sets from, but each one I get includes an 18mm socket and a 7mm hex drive. The two socket sets are Craftsman 6 and 12 points, and hex driver is a 7mm out of a Craftsman set of 8.


I meant remove WHEELS.
Yes, how much would it cost to place a simple metal pawl on each pad?

Disappointed that my set does not have 7mm hex nor 18mm socket.
What else does it not have that I will discover is needed?

I just love wasting time and fuel and money buying more tools I’ll never use anywherelse.
Nice labels on those sockets. Why can’t they all be readable like that?

Wheels aren’t held on with metric lug nuts. The lug nuts are going to be either 3/4" or 13/16" drive.


I don’t care if you coast all the way down to 0 MPH, when you drive that fast, the friction that is always present increases beyond what is normal. The bearings heat up. The tires heat up. Everything that is connected to these components receive conducted heat from these components, especially if your tires are overinflated.

We’ve been trying to talk some sense into you since you first admitted you allow your vehicle to achieve speeds of 100 MPH, but you don’t listen. You always come back with the same old tired excuses.

You buy the right tool to do the job right the first time.

Happy Motoring!

You’d Never Hear Indicators On Inboard Pads, Especially While Coasting Down From 100+ MPH.
Some People Don’t Like Wasting Time Or Buying Tools For Their Own Car. That’s Why Professional Mechanics Were Invented.

A little homework prior to purchasing tools would help you. Have you ever heard of the “Six Ps” ?


depending on which rotors are on your truck, they may have two little screw holes in them, 180 degrees apart from each other. If they do, find two bolts that will fit the holes, and screw them in evenly. 1 twist on one, 1 twist on the other. Keep doing that until the rotor pops off.

Now you know what mechanics that work at independent shops go through.Cussing out each vehicle manufacturer on a daily basis.Who invented the 5.5 mm nut head? A ‘NUT’ head!!!

I machine discs every brake job or replace the rotor if they are too thin.I give the car owner the option of just replacing the brake pads, with a disclaimer.

Brake lube on the sliding portion of the brake pads are a must.Sliding pins are inspected and lubed{high temp brake grease} Lube the backing portion of the pads.Wire brush or sandpaper the positions where the top and bottom parts of the pads slide on the caliper bracket.

Buy the best pads possible. They usually come with ‘Squealers’ and new slide clips.

Spray the hub portion of the brake disc{rotor] with foaming penetrating spray.Don’t use ‘weasel piss’ Use a high quality spray. Tap the disc with a hammer between the lug studs.Hit the backside of the rotor on its edge as you are rotating the disc. It should come off.If not, use a BFH {Big Flippin Hammer} with the intention of replacing the disc{rotor}

From what I’ve heard from coworkers, Ford is notorious for proprietary items. One guy had to go to the dealership to buy a bolt for his ball-joint he was replacing on his 04 F150. The little bolt cost him over $60, because no aftermarket company made it.

Earlier I wrote “remove tires” to see brake pads. I meant wheels. I use the lug wrench.
(A handicapped friend had a flat and called me to put on his spare.
Someone had put different sized lug nuts on and his lug wrench could not remove all!
He called the business which last did his tires and they had to change the tire.)

Knowing the quality of the brake work, I would be afraid to apply the brakes too…

Does this work if the rotor is integral to the hub?? You get to buy rotors, hubs, bearings, seals the whole enchilada…

Do you really think the FACTORY cares about any of this??

I’m also one of those who hate that odd size metric stuff. The 15 and 16 MM oddballs are also goofy. That’s one thing I like about the Asian cars; an 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19 will get you through just about anything on them.

Also in agreement that if you’re overlooking those countersunk rotor retention screws you can whale on them forever without getting them loose.

Ford is not the only one guilty of oddball sizes. They’re all guilty; even VW with that weird 5.5 MM Triple Square screw. A plain old 6 MM Allen screw was apparently too simple to consider and is one of a million reasons mechanics owe their souls on a weekly basis to the tool vendors.

“and his lug wrench could not remove ALL!”

You know what you ran into? I call it lug nuts with condoms!

These are lug nuts that have a fancy chrome tin cover over a steel nut. And if the fancy chrome tin cover comes off the steel nut below, you’re left with a nut that an SAE or metric socket won’t fit. And that’s why they make a lug nut removal socket.


Does Ford PURPOSELY make the caliper bolts 18 mm because most socket sets are 15, 17, 19mm …? Absolutely. The clown who designs the thing isn’t going to call up the boss and say, “hey, we’re done here! Lay us off!” They always come up with something new. The bolt selection is probably out of dark comedy boredom.

Do they PURPOSELY NOT put squealers on the brake pads so you will score the rotor before hearing any problem? All the more money when the under qualified come to get service.

Maybe putting more SALT on the roads would help…


You need a 15mm socket but not a 16mm socket. Why?

16mm?25.4=.629 or 5/8".

Why duplicate a tool already made?


Good idea!
No holes anywhere.
That would be TOO smart for them to do.