Am I missing it somewhere?? Has the OP made sure the starter has power to the signal wire at the starter while cranking???
If you are unconvertable setting and using jack stands, then at least get some ramps, I often jack my fun car up and put it on ramps at all 4 corners, and it will get the car up much higher then those old ford wheels, they are only raising the car up about what 3"???
Yeah, I only get confused when the lines go from one page to the next, I have lost them like that and keep having to go back and forthā¦ The colored lines really help out, but all black and whiteā¦
I need to replace the starter. The car no longer cranks or starts, even when itās warm outside. Is there any trick, which does not involve pulling the throttle body, pulling the fuel rail, pulling the intake manifold, and disconnecting the coolant crossover pipe and hoses? I cannot even see the starter from above, and from below, I can see it, but thereās no room to put my hand on it, let alone remove it. What a terrible design!
My memory is kind of hazy since these cars havenāt been on the road in the last 15 years or so, but I think I recall separating the exhaust down pipe and putting it out of the way and snaking my hands and long flex extensions up there and wiggling it out. Of course Iāve always been able to stand under the car and work on itā¦
Is your Toyota back on the road or are you down 2 cars now?
No, the Corolla is not back on the road at this time. I am going to order the parts for both vehicles at the same time, from RockAuto, to keep costs down. I already started taking it apart, and am in the process of removing the fuel rail. Of course, the fuel pressure regulator does not want to come offā¦
I have removed the throttle body, fuel rail, upper alternator bracket, disconnected numerous fuel, vacuum, and coolant hoses, but I simply cannot remove the intake manifold. I cannot access the lower bolts on the driverās side. When I took apart the engine to replace the head gasket and have the head reconditioned, I pulled the head with the intake manifold still attached. I donāt wish to take the motor apart that much to replace a starter, as that would require a new timing belt kit, new gasket kit, new set of head bolts,etc.
How difficult is it to remove the brake booster and master cylinder to gain access from that side? The master cylinder could use to be replaced anyways, as the brake pedal goes down farther without resistance since I changed the front brake pads.
This car is an old orphan that was never popular, youāre having a hard time finding technical information to fix it correctly, not all of the parts you need are available, etc.
Iām beginning to get the idea this will never be a trustworthy and reliable car
I believe itās time to junk this car and get a much newer and more common car where the manufacturer still exists
Itās just nuts and bolts, but at the risk of repeating myself I think youāre going about this the wrong way. Iām pretty sure the starter can be accessed from underneath with the exhaust pipe out of the way. The only car Iāve ever had to remove a master cylinder to replace a starter was a Chevette with power brakes.
But youāre this far into pulling the intakeā¦
Are you a member of some online Daewoo forum that could give you more specific help?
Iām going to ask again, for the however many times I asked, did you confirm signal to the starter solenoid (starter signal wire)?? Or is this just another attempt to throw parts at it and hope it sticks?? I really would hate for you to go through all of this for it not to be the starterā¦
I understand that it maybe hard to get to, but sometimes you have to think outside the box, I donāt remember the set up on your Daewoo, but at least once you get close to it check it before going any furtherā¦ Just pull the fuel pump and ignition fuse before trying, donāt want a bomb fire just yet anywayā¦ lol
Unfortunately, the starter is near the top of the motor, under the intake manifold. So no, I have not physically put my hands on it. It makes sense that the starter would have failed. The hose connections to the plastic coolant crossover pipe have been leaking for some time, not a lot, but enough that it runs down the outside of the engine, and leaves stains on the ground. I just top it off every 2-3 weeks or so.
If I can physically get to the starter, I can also physically get to the coolant pipe, and I will replace that as well as the hoses. If a new starter does not solve the problem or if I cannot physically access it, then Iām probably going to cut losses and move on.
Well, I got home early today, and I worked on the car into the night. I got the starter out, but it was a lot more effort than it should be. I had to remove the brake master cylinder in order to access some of the screws for the intake manifold, then reach inside the center of the intake support bracket to loosen it from the cylinder head, then reach through the center of this bracket to disconnect and unbolt the starter.
I obviously need a new starter, and the brake master cylinder is worn out as well. And of course, I bent the outlet of the fuel filter trying to remove the brake booster, which ultimately gave up on. So that needs to be replaced too. I notice that the brake master cylinder has proportioning valves attached to it, which still work fine, and the factory service manual says to replace these as a pair, if defective. Am I able to reuse these with a new master cylinder?
I hate to put it this way, but I think you pulled the engine just to change the oil, so to speakā¦ The flat rate labor for the S and the Sport are both only 0.8 hours, in human time that is 48 minutes, as @asemaster said, you started at the wrong side of the carā¦
I hope this takes care of it for you, cause I am really feeling bad for you going through all this for a starterā¦ But I would have opened the wiring harness up and peeled back the insulation and tested for signal during start mode as close to the starter as possible or back probed the closest connector right after moving the shifter to see if it helped or notā¦ but thatās just meā¦
I canāt say this enoughā¦
BENCH TEST THE STARTER BEFORE INSTALL, multiple times, heck I would even take it to a parts house to have it testedā¦
Thatās very good advice, and I will take the new starter to an auto parts store which can bench test it. I actually ordered two starters, one remanufactured OEM and one 100% new Valeo brand. The OEM is Delco-Remy. I will use whichever one appears to be be better quality, and save the other one as a spare.
And thereās no effinā way that a person could change this starter in 48 minutesā¦or even in 480 minutes. āBook timesā like this are the reason why many professional mechanics feel cheated, and quit the business.
Even the factory service manual says to remove the intake manifold, and intake manifold support bracket, however I could not access the bolts to remove the intake manifold without pulling the brake master cylinder, and I could not access the bolts to remove the intake manifold support bracket without first removing the intake manifold. Supposedly, you can remove the alternator and reach in from that side, but I could not remove the lower bolt, though I can now with the intake manifold removed.
Itās a lousy design, but whatever. I looked at the used cars which are available right now, on Craigslist and similar sites, and Iād rather keep this one on the road.
Dangā¦ reminds me of the line- hang onto my ankles, Iām going in!
You have my sympathy. I have been through numerous similar struggles and said, if this ever happens again, Iām paying someone to deal with it. In the end, it was a triumph to complete and the pain and suffering faded with timeā¦
Labor guide times are designed for professional mechanics in a shop setting with access to a hoist and all the power tools needed to efficiently perform a service.
I guarantee that I would have had that starter replaced in far less than 480 minutes. Even in less than 60.
You mean you would be willing to go through this again?
