# Wheel cylinder leak

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** ford, taurus\
**Created:** [May 8, 2018, 1:09am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967 "2018-05-08T01:09:26Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 10\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\
**Post date:** [May 8, 2018, 1:09am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967/1 "2018-05-08T01:09:26Z")

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i changed my rear wheel cylinder, brake drum, shoes about 5 months ago. last week i stopped way hard and today i see a leak at the wheel. new thick shoes, new drum so it should be real snug for clearances? i would expect the new cylinder with seals to be fairly failure proof? what exactly failed here? i suppose i have to crawl under there now and see if the brake line split?

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**Author:** ![oldtimer-11](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e79b87/32.png) [@oldtimer-11](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldtimer-11)\
**Post date:** [May 8, 2018, 1:30am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967/2 "2018-05-08T01:30:39Z")

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Nobody here is Carnac thr Magnificent, the only way to see is too look.

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**Author:** ![PvtPublic](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/pvtpublic/32/13089_2.png) [@PvtPublic](https://community.cartalk.com/u/PvtPublic)\
**Post date:** [May 8, 2018, 8:25am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967/3 "2018-05-08T08:25:09Z")

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> [@Cavell](#):
>
> i suppose i have to crawl under there now and see if the brake line split?

Nah, I’m sure it’s not anything important. (Sarcasm)

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**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\
**Post date:** [May 8, 2018, 11:42am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967/4 "2018-05-08T11:42:05Z")

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You do have to look. But, I was asking what do you think might be the issue before I go under there? I was coming at it from the angle of new parts should not “break”. What else is there? Yes I did unscrew the brake line fitting to install the wheel cylinder. Maybe it’s loose? Nah.

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**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\
**Post date:** [May 8, 2018, 1:09pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967/5 "2018-05-08T13:09:02Z")

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I have installed new, out of the box wheel cylinders with pitted bores. I found I could rebuild most wheel cylinders as quickly as I could R&R them with new parts and never have a failure.

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**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\
**Post date:** [May 8, 2018, 1:17pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967/6 "2018-05-08T13:17:28Z")

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> [@Cavell](#):
>
> new cylinder with seals to be fairly failure proof

NOthing is failure proof!

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**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\
**Post date:** [May 8, 2018, 2:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967/7 "2018-05-08T14:05:27Z")

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you would think a new cyl is better than just putting new seals in an old cyl? going to look and see.

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**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\
**Post date:** [May 8, 2018, 2:46pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967/8 "2018-05-08T14:46:29Z")

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> [@Cavell](#):
>
> you would think a new cyl is better than just putting new seals in an old cyl? going to look and see.

The quality of after market new is often questionable.

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**Author:** ![Cavell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/cavell/32/43396_2.png) [@Cavell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Cavell)\
**Post date:** [May 9, 2018, 12:32pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967/9 "2018-05-09T12:32:47Z")

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nut into wheel cyl is tight but the nut on steel line into the rubber flex line fitting is kinda seized to steel line and it does not want to easily twist. ![YF1Z2267AA-ANG__ra_p](https://global.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/original/2X/3/32c609cd7823afb9f232aa85d5d26260acedc720.jpg)

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**Author:** ![COROLLAGUY1](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/corollaguy1/32/7575_2.png) [@COROLLAGUY1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/COROLLAGUY1)\
**Post date:** [May 9, 2018, 5:03pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/wheel-cylinder-leak/116967/10 "2018-05-09T17:03:39Z")

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> [@Cavell](#):
>
> nut into wheel cyl is tight but the nut on steel line into the rubber flex line fitting is kinda seized to steel line

That happens all the time due to rust. In that case, you might want to consider getting a new hose because they are fairly cheap. I usually use a combination of PB Blaster and heat from a propane torch to unseize the fitting.Be careful when working with a propane torch near the gas tank…use a shield or something.
