You are probably a PRO at shimming those valves by now eh? LOL
LOL I don’t know about ‘‘pro’’ but I’m a lot better at it then when I first started this project…that’s for sure…
Hahahaaa that’s how it goes bro… I’ve had to learn things that I never really set out to learn let alone become a Pro at…LOL
ITS 60 DEGREES OUT…Time to let the Blackbird Fly… She’s been itching for a ride…
Blackbird
It’s all back together and it runs great! The instrument panel looks kinda naked though without the bright orange CEL that’s been on for the last decade or so. : ) Very exciting time! -especially since (for years) I thought the engine was on it’s last leg based on the readings from the 2006 compression test.
ok4450,
I never did check the timing belt to see if it was off a tooth. Would I be able to determine this with a timing light instead ? And if it is off, would I have to remove the belt to correct the timing? Or Could I just turn the distributor?
It’s possible anyway but there are other influences on setting the timing on a distributor equipped car.
Checking to see if the timing mark is in the neighborhood certainly won’t hurt. If it’s off quite a bit then removal of the belt covers as necessary and checking to make sure the timing marks are aligned would be a good idea.
A vacuum gauge can also be connected to an intake manifold vacuum source and this could possibly reveal if the cam is off a tooth or two because it would affect a vacuum reading. Deciphering a vacuum gauge is a bit of an art but to me they’re an invaluable tool. They’re also cheap to buy and easy to use.
Glad to hear it’s running well now. You’re lucky it was an intake and not an exhaust valve problem. With the latter, any improvement would have probably been short lived because an exhaust valve face and seat can be damaged very quickly and disentegration would continue even if the lash was set properly.
thought u might like to know for what your workin on as far as your compression readings what u saw on the invoice was a low cylinder prob. do to a miss fire ,fuel will wash the cylinder the shop should have ran the test with a couple squirts of oil in that cylinder to see if it would come up. most time when running a compression test what your looking for is for all the cylinders to be close in the reading you get. you should make sure the car has a good battery or hook up a charger all plugs should be removed and the fuel system disabled. its not so much the numbers but equality acrossed the engine .as for your pic. i see one plug with small oil deposits. keep an eye on that cylinder could be a valve guide or valve guide seal leaking into the combustion chamber. know about your code the first thing to check is for excesive carbon built up in the egr ports . its getting very popular with todays gas. remove egr check passage intake manifold side should be very clear . note do not scratch inside of port ,heavy scratches will make the problem return fast. let me know if i can help further techshoprepair@aol.com