I use local shops primarily due to the dealers being 30+ miles away and good local shops are 5 min. from home. Yes dealers charge more per hour, but sometimes on complicated jobs the extra experience the techs have and access to most up to date equipment and service bulletins is worth the extra money.
I don’t have that big an issue with dealer rates, as I have with dealer service depts. upselling and packaging unneeded services to pump up the bill. These padded bills can be very high for very basic and sometimes simply unnecessary work. That is where the dealer rip off is the worst IMO.
Ah, good old Management By Objectives and Program Budgeting. Made a lot of money for consultants. Not necessarily a bad thing but tends to pigeon hole departments at the expense of the long term overall health of the whole organization. Sometimes capacity building for future opportunities is more important than a particular department turning a profit each month. Just IMHO.
I agree @uncleturbo. I have found using the dealer service department can be worthwhile for all the right reasons if you itemize each service or repair and then check prices against those you feel can be done cheaper and still dependably from an independent. You just have to be our own broker, read your maintenance manual and not fall for the service packages and over charge for parts that dealers have become experts at doing.
I always had good work done at the local Chevy dealer. Never recommended unneeded work, decent prices for what was needed. The Lexus dealer, on the other hand, was a disaster. I quickly quit using them.
It depends on the dealer and what you need in my experience, the local Honda dealer quoted $100.00 just to take a look at a noise on my dad’s CRV, the independent shop confirmed what the problem was and fixed it for $80 (been dealing with that shop for 20+ years) on the other hand the same shop charges pretty close to the Toyota Dealer’s price for an oil change on the prius using the synthetic oil (regular prices)
Back in 1993 when we needed to have the 30k service on the Protoge we called around to three local dealers and only one didn’t add things to the list. Pulled a repair shop out of the phone book and got a quote that matched the dealer (40 miles away) from a shop only a couple miles up the road. Started getting bids from them when the dealer said the car needed something and eventually brought the whole fleet in.
For some perspective, consider the old paper I found in my attic a few years ago while rummaging for something. It was a copy of a dealer repair order for a clutch job that I paid to have done. At the time I had gone through a major knee operation and was on crutches so it was not a DIY repair .
The labor rate at the dealer in 1970 was 7 dollars per flat rate hour X a 3 hour charge and 20 something for the clutch kit for a total of about 50 dollars. Big money back then…
I am starting to sense that dealers do not rip you off by their hourly rate, but by not fixing stuff, or giving you cheaper alternatives. All they do is replace the entire thing. Friend has a blown headlight bulb? Was quoted $1400 for a whole new assembly. Meanwhile, $100 for a bulb at a local indy. These dealers are downright thieves.
Well, THAT dealer was a ‘downright thief’. But the same can be said for some chain shops, and some independent shops. Not determined by the type of shop.
Having to replace an entire unit (whatever it may be) is not something that is always the dealer’s choice.
If a customer needs small Part A to fix whatever, that small part may simply not be available to the dealer except as a unit from the factory. The mechanic and the parts person may be in full agreement that it’s ridiculous to be forced into buying Complete Unit B but their hands are tied.
Example. Some years ago a ratchet slipped while I was changing plugs on the Lincoln I used to own. The ratchet hit a plastic ABS switch grommet on the brake booster and broke it.
The grommet (unusual in shape) was marked with a Ford part number and I was hoping it was no big deal to order another.
That grommet worth 3 bucks at most was simply not available to the Ford dealer under that part number and the only way to get it was to buy a complete new brake booster at 350 dollars.
Was the dealer trying to rip me off? No; the parts person allowed me to review the screen and parts listing. That number is simply not available and their hands are tied by FOMOCO; just like other car dealers are hamstrung by the manufacturers.
"In 1970, a car cost $3500, so $50 was 1.5% of the car.
Today a new car costs $30k. 1.5% of that is $450 "
Well there you go. Back then a simple clutch job cost 1.5% of the purchase price. Today, at $90/hour for 3 hours labor and maybe $180 for a clutch disc, you’re looking at $450. Still about 1.5% of the purchase price.
I suppose one reason labor rates may be comparatively higher now is the cost of tooling and equipment. Back in 1970 I imagine a competent mechanic could fit all of his tools in the trunk of his car. Nowadays, mechanics need so many different tools it’s ridiculous. The toolbox I have now was delivered by semi as it was too big for the tool truck and had an empty shipping weight of over 900 lbs. Packed full it’s got to weigh a ton. Last time I moved it I had to call a tow truck. Both mechanics and shop owners have a tremendous investment in tools, and someone has to pay for it.