# Watts-link (bellcrank) + 2 links?

**URL:** <https://community.cartalk.com/t/watts-link-bellcrank-2-links/62371>\
**Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\
**Tags:** chrysler\
**Created:** [March 8, 2011, 1:39am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/watts-link-bellcrank-2-links/62371 "2011-03-08T01:39:24Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 2\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![rjzzzz](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/51bf81/32.png) [@rjzzzz](https://community.cartalk.com/u/rjzzzz)\
**Post date:** [March 8, 2011, 1:39am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/watts-link-bellcrank-2-links/62371/1 "2011-03-08T01:39:24Z")

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My mechanic said clunking sound from rear  
  
 of car is caused by watts link. He suggests  
  
 replacing watts bell crank and upper and  
  
 lower linkage. Do the two linkages need to  
  
 be replaced since they appear to be metal  
  
 rods.

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**Author:** ![mark9207](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/71c47a/32.png) [@mark9207](https://community.cartalk.com/u/mark9207)\
**Post date:** [March 8, 2011, 2:57am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/watts-link-bellcrank-2-links/62371/2 "2011-03-08T02:57:27Z")

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If memory serves, you have to disassemble the links to replace the Watts link. They may break upon disassembly, which is why they are being recommended to you. You could decline them in the event they do not break, but you may have to replace them shortly afterward anyway. It’s best to do the complete job first and only pay the labor once.