I think the main pump could function without the in-tank pump working, but it put a lot of stress on it. That might account for the frequent failures of the main pump in this case. On my 1983 DL the main pump never failed, but I replaced the in-tank pump a couple of times. Just a thought.
You could well be correct, but it is all water over the proverbial dam at this point, and–additionally–the fuel pump problems were just one of many chronic problems with that accursed car.
I agree. I always thought the constant maintenance was just normal for a car until I moved on to a Toyota and suddenly had loads of free time.
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Yup!
After 7 1/2 years and 80k miles, in total, my Outback has had fewer repairs (one– the replacement of the WW pump, under warranty) than my Volvo had each month for the 7 years that I owned it.
We live in Hawai’i!
Key cycling doesn’t work reliably. We are stuck again today, trying to determine problem.
We got a new battery and ruled out any possibility of that being the culprit.
We checked price on a fuel pump in a local store and it’s a bit more than I expected. Need to check with more places.
If anyone knows of a link to a solid, informative video that shows how to replace the fuel pump, please let me know ( I’m searching myself for some now on Youtube)
As far as I know, considering that pretty much anything has to be flown in, you should expect high prices, versus us mainlanders
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It seems like you’ve proved there’s a fuel rail pressure problem. There are several possible causes
- Fuel pump anti-drain-back check valve (usually have to replace the fuel pump for that).
- Fuel pressure regulator is leaking into it’s vacuum connection
- Fuel pressure regulator is leaking to the return line
- Fuel injector is leaking
- Gasoline hose or hose connection is leaking between the pump and the fuel rail
The most likely cause from reports here for that problem is the drain back valve. You can increase your odds though by clamping off various parts of the fuel system as a test. For example if you clamp off the return line and it doesn’t lose pressure then, most likely the problem is the fuel pressure regulator leaking into the return line, not the pump.
So if I were to tap on the fuel pump a few times in an attempt to dislodge anything built up inside ( I came across some other Volvo 240 owners who have done this), where would I do that? I mean, where is the main fuel pump? Or the second part of the fuel relay or other pump? I’m still daunted by car anatomy…
And is this a viable option for a temporary “fix” until I can remedy the underlying problem, hopefully sooner than later.
Possibly useful info here:
Thanks for the link, insightful.
I just did some tapping underneath and guess what, lol?
Car is running again, for the moment.
Another temporary relief, though, I know.
I think I’d prefer an Outback, too, at this point…
Subaru, SAAB(?), VW, Nissan Xterra even.
There is something special about this Volvo, though. We really like this car, even though it’s been a bit of a pain.
As someone once said, don’t fall in love with something that can’t love you back. I thought I really liked my 83 245 too, but realized that I had merely gotten used to it once I actually fell in love with a more reliable car.
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Yes, there is something special about it. 21 years old - Volvo is no longer required to have parts for it - you are on an Island so shipping is not next day - if it has been a pain it will continue to do so.
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