@Nevada545 thanks for the pics.
It’s not me who doubts the existence of the Scion TSB.
I use the TIJIP portal directly into the Toyota’s Scion documents.
Guys, I’m not doubting anyone. Nor am I saying that no Scion has ever had a head bolt problem. Nor am I saying that the TSB does not exist for Toyotas. I’m sayiing that according to your own post that TSB does not apply to the Scion application and offering a possibly explanation as to why that is.
It’s a Toyota TSB, but apparently the Scion application of the engine isn’t included in it.
It is what it is. There’s no sense arguing about it.
Fair enough.
Bottom line: Good luck to anyone who has this problem!
The OP says the water-pump broke, isn’t this different than the stripped head bolts.
Based on my reading on the forums, most believe that by '05 they changed their design. I have a 2005 myself and watch the coolant and the back of the engine religiously-not sure what the point is though, because even the helicoil fix is pretty pricy and if I end up needing it, I would not be happy. I have read and researched on the DIY option and don’t think this is doable for me.
Getting back to the OP, if the installer will offer a reasonable guarantee that the engine will perform well for another 100 K say without major work needed (beyond routine maintenance as suggested by Toyota for that engine), $5000 – it might be a bit on the high side – but it isn’t out of line I think. If you have reason to be confident in your mechanic, I think it is a good bet.
One thing you might ask. Is this “used engine” from a local junkyard where it has been sitting in a wrecked car for a while? Or is it sourced from a professional engine rebuilding company?
All I can say is that I am extremely relieved that the TSB came out BEFORE I was looking for a used Camry. If I had been in the market prior to the TSB, I probably would have bought a Camry with the 2AZ-FE engine. After all, the engine is of a newer design and is more economical than the 1MZ-FE.
@Galant didn’t the OP also say that they believe the headgasket failed, as a result of the water pump.
Until that head is removed and the OP states what the condition of the head and block is, I will assume that the real cause of any coolant loss from between the head and the block is in fact due to stripped threads, NOT an “old fashioned” head gasket failure.
@GeorgeSanJose personally I would attempt to fix my block rather than install another used engine.
Even the best mechanic can look like an idiot if the expensive part he installs fails down the road. I replaced a fuel filter/regulator on a relative’s Jeep a few months back. The car had 100K and was poorly maintained. Two days later the car was stalling, because the regulator portion of the assembly failed.
I think it would be unwise to “guarantee” a used engine for 100K. It’s not good business. A factory crate engine doesn’t even have such a generous warranty.
The OP’s car only had a measly 72k miles on it and, just my humble opinion, this engine failure was entirely preventable by simply pulling over instead of motoring it into the pavement.
This engine did not die a natural death.
@ok4450 you definitely have a point. Many engines could be saved by shutting them down and coasting to the side of the road when the warning signs appear.
A colleague’s wife killed her engine recently. The oil pressure light came on. She saw the light and decided to keep driving, thinking it would make it. It didn’t and a long block was the ultimate solution.
My brother’s car had the oil pressure light come on some months ago, due to a burst oil pressure hose. He shut it off immediately, called me, and I replaced the hose. There was no damage. Had he kept driving it, it would have needed major repairs.
I am leery of oil coolers on typical sedans. Why anyone needs them is a mystery. They are sources of potential leaks which can cause serious engine damage. Yes I agree they do serve a purpose on race cars. But a grocery getter?
Db4690, I wholeheartedly agree; I wish only the best to anyone who has a major engine problem of any kind.
Because of the point already made, that the engine was driven dry and overheated and then driven until the oil ran out; I’d be inclined to consider a rebuilt rather than try to repair the old one. Every sleeve bearing, every cylinder, every ring, all have probably susstained damage.
OK4450, you’ve made an excellent point as usual. While we were discussing the TSB, the original post described severe damage completely unrelated to any design or manufacturing error…except perhaps in the original water pump. And the engine’s demise was unnecessary. Hopefully the driver has learned a valuable lesson from the experience.