Our Comcast 50mb package sucks money wise. Heck, the new 2 gig line is only $300/mo. Sweet. Hope Comcast doesn’t find out I am doing some work for centurylink. My bill will go up
The issue with the car is really a simple and basic one. The car uses the reading from the coolant sensor to determine how much fuel the engine needs. An engine being started at 14* needs much more fuel than one being started at 190*. Adding fuel for a 14* engine when it’s actually 190* can easily result in a no start condition.
One of my earliest car memories is my mother trying to start the old 63 Fairlane. Sometimes after driving the car for a while and then trying to restart it, it wouldn’t fire. You would have to take that metal pan thing off the engine and open up that flapper thing to let more air in. Then it would start.
Choke stuck closed, coolant sensor reading 14* on a warm engine, same thing.
My point in all of this is that I have never seen or heard of a temp sensor causing a no-start. I also assume the owner of that Taurus is a happy camper no matter how the diagnosis was done and which may or may not conform to anyone else’s way of doing things.
Just for hoots when I got home today I unplugged the temp sensor on my Lincoln and connected a variable resistance tool which I have and which is used for checking gauges of various types or for any other purpose which requires a specific resistance.
Normally the Ford sensors are about 58K ohms at 50 degrees F (those numbers are off the top of my head) so I cranked in about 100k which should equate to well below zero on the coolant temperature. The car starts right up and runs fine although the CEL is on.
I did not do this on the Chevy but it also started right up and ran fine with both ECT and IAT sensors unplugged.
I just found it odd that this guy would post something on Youtube that was supposedly quite unusual when I’ve encountered it a dozen times working at plain old neighborhood garages on average family cars. The most recent one I can remember is an F150 that was in for an intermittent crank, no start, with no rhyme or reason. Initial testing and starting and driving it repeatedly for a day resulted in “unable to duplicate complaint, no problem found.” Of course when he came to pick up the truck it wouldn’t start. My guy was about to open the hood and check for spark and fuel, but I caught him and hooked up a scan tool. The truck was still fairly warm, having been driven half an hour before, but the coolant temp was reading -10*. Problem solved.
I also don’t accept the notion that the car had no spark. I can think of nothing in the fuel control system that would make the car lose spark. We never see what testing he did or how he determined there was no spark. I just don’t believe it.
I can’t speak to why your car would start and run with an out of range ECT and another one won’t. Different fuel mapping and Failure Management Effect Modes?
I agree that every good tech has his own diagnostic strategy. It doesn’t take long in this business to find that factory service procedures often just lead you into the abyss.
“factory service procedures often just lead you into the abyss.”
Like the P0300 trouble tree, which often does NOT take compression into account . . .
And then some yoyo is chasing his tail, testing this and that, and the root cause is a base engine problem 
"factory service procedures often just lead you into the abyss."
I’m not sure who wrote the Corolla’s factory service manual, but it is nearly incomprehensible in places. I think it must be due to the Japanese-to-English translation. I expect the original version was written in Japanese.
One problem I always have with it, it doesn’t refer to the part’s name consistently. The same part will be named differently throughout the book, and sometimes differently in the same paragraph. So I’m never entirely sure what part it is they are talking about.
Like the temperature operated valve placed between the canister purge port and the throttle body which purges the canister of stored fuel vapors only when the engine is hot and the throttle is off-idle. It’s called at least four different names.
- “air valve”
- “vacuum valve”
- “BVSD” valve (for bimetallic vacuum switching device)
- " B, V, S D " (making it appear they are talking about four different things
And it says about this device …’ when the engine is cold the valve is open to the atmosphere’ … which as far as I can tell isn’t the case. I think what they were trying to say is when the valve is closed it blocks the vacuum from the intake manifold which would otherwise pull the canister fumes into the throttle body intake at off-idle.
I’d like it if the manufacturers would publish the fsm online, and allow diy’er car owners to add some clarifications in sections where that is needed. Over time the ambiguities would get resolved. I’m not holding my breath on this … lol …