# Unattached air filter **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [April 14, 2018, 12:34am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/unattached-air-filter/115621 "2018-04-14T00:34:19Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 7\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Jake\_Stoering](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/ea666f/32.png) [@Jake\_Stoering](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Jake_Stoering)\ **Post date:** [April 14, 2018, 12:34am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/unattached-air-filter/115621/1 "2018-04-14T00:34:19Z")
My 07 GMC Sierra 1500 vortec Max 5.3 started acting sluggish so I check my K&N air filter and it’s just laying in the box unattached!! I’ve had the truck for a year and I looked at it once so I have no idea how long it’s been off… Am I SOL? ---
**Author:** ![George\_San\_Jose1](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/g/e5b9ba/32.png) [@George\_San\_Jose1](https://community.cartalk.com/u/George_San_Jose1)\ **Post date:** [April 14, 2018, 12:37am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/unattached-air-filter/115621/2 "2018-04-14T00:37:20Z")
Well, you definitely want to fix the engine air filter problem. I’d guess the most likely problem w/non-filtered air flowing into a modern engine is the MAF gets coated with gunk. That could cause sluggish operation. I had an air filter problem on my 70’s truck a couple years ago, had to rebuild the carburetor. ---
**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\ **Post date:** [April 14, 2018, 12:45am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/unattached-air-filter/115621/3 "2018-04-14T00:45:23Z")
A missing air filter can destroy an engine. Dry dusty conditions cause quicker damage than wet climates. But definitely George’s suggestion is the place to begin. And I’ll also suggest going back to the factory filter hardware. That aftermarket isn’t very reliable. ---
**Author:** ![Jake\_Stoering](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/ea666f/32.png) [@Jake\_Stoering](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Jake_Stoering)\ **Post date:** [April 14, 2018, 1:05am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/unattached-air-filter/115621/4 "2018-04-14T01:05:44Z")
Ya I was more then upset… I am getting a new filter, cleaning out the throttle body and changing oil… I was also loosing oil pressure so I replaced my oil pressure sensor and it quit dropping completely but I still only have about 20psi warmed up… ---
**Author:** ![Rod-Knox](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/a183cd/32.png) [@Rod-Knox](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Rod-Knox)\ **Post date:** [April 14, 2018, 1:14am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/unattached-air-filter/115621/5 "2018-04-14T01:14:19Z")
Good luck @Jake_Stoering ---
**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\ **Post date:** [April 14, 2018, 1:18am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/unattached-air-filter/115621/6 "2018-04-14T01:18:04Z")
Get rid of the K&N system entirely. They often cause problems. The vapors from the oiled filters contaminate the Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor, causing poor operation, and the physical configuration can also affect performance by causing inaccurate MAF inputs to the ECU. The MAF sensor only measures a portion of the airflow, and the total airflow is calculated from there. Change the induction system physical dimensions and you can cause incorrect readings to the ECU. K&N systems often do that. ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [April 14, 2018, 4:39am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/unattached-air-filter/115621/7 "2018-04-14T04:39:33Z")
I’ll assume you have the LM7 engine . . . Here are the oil pressure specs . . . minimum hot 6psi at 1000rpm 18psi at 2000rpm 24psi at 4000rpm Based on what you said, sounds like your engine oil pressure is just fine And I agree with the others . . . throw that K&N system out. Go back to stock. You’ll have far less problems, and it’s a lot simpler, as well What tends to happen with those faulty oil pressure sensors is that the gauge will read either 0 or 80. We change them out all the time on our fleet vehicles. I’m sure you’re aware you weren’t actually losing oil pressure . . . the faulty sensor was causing erratic readings, no more and no less.