# Today I learned : lock nut edition **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [May 31, 2016, 8:08pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/today-i-learned-lock-nut-edition/93434 "2016-05-31T20:08:43Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 6\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![JuniorMint](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/5fc32e/32.png) [@JuniorMint](https://community.cartalk.com/u/JuniorMint)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2016, 8:08pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/today-i-learned-lock-nut-edition/93434/1 "2016-05-31T20:08:43Z")
TIL Stover nut is another name for all-metal lock nut (or conical lock nut, deforming thread lock nut, non-nylon lock nut…). I think I skipped over them at the store because they were near the stove bolts. I would have put this in my old exhaust fastener discussion but it is closed now. ---
**Author:** ![ken\_green](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/ken_green/32/816_2.png) [@ken\_green](https://community.cartalk.com/u/ken_green)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2016, 9:54pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/today-i-learned-lock-nut-edition/93434/2 "2016-05-31T21:54:09Z")
Yah. . there are multiple types of locking nuts. In automotive we see ; nylock, with the nylon ring ; pinch lock, squashed a little out of round or staked in three places ; and thread locks, where the inner threads are out of kilter. ---
**Author:** ![texases](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/texases/32/862_2.png) [@texases](https://community.cartalk.com/u/texases)\ **Post date:** [May 31, 2016, 11:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/today-i-learned-lock-nut-edition/93434/3 "2016-05-31T23:05:45Z")
Simplest - two regular nuts, jammed. ---
**Author:** ![Mustangman](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mustangman/32/44130_2.png) [@Mustangman](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Mustangman)\ **Post date:** [June 1, 2016, 3:51am UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/today-i-learned-lock-nut-edition/93434/4 "2016-06-01T03:51:17Z")
Or the flange nut with serrated flange. Bites into the surface but spins on like a non-locking nut. There is a version with a matching washer, too. ---
**Author:** ![JuniorMint](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/5fc32e/32.png) [@JuniorMint](https://community.cartalk.com/u/JuniorMint)\ **Post date:** [June 28, 2016, 6:41pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/today-i-learned-lock-nut-edition/93434/5 "2016-06-28T18:41:02Z")
I have noticed lock nuts from one source do not look like those from another - e.g. from original vehicle manufacturer vs. local stock. I think this could be significant with regard to the clamping forces…? ---
**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\ **Post date:** [June 28, 2016, 7:05pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/today-i-learned-lock-nut-edition/93434/6 "2016-06-28T19:05:39Z")
It isn’t as simple as just clamping forces. There are many different types of locking nuts because there are many different performance needs. Some, such as those that use polymer plugs, are light application and only to prevent vibration from causing the nut to loosen. Others, such as many used on things like automotive spindles, are designed to deform to prevent extreme vibration combined with torque forces from causing them to loosen… many of these should not be reused after removal. Do your homework when working on cars and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Some applications, such as those on sway bar links, use locking devices combined with fine threads to ensure positive lock. Many such as those with the dent in the side are designed for general use, such as on swingsets, where vibration, torsional forces, and other mechanical environmental forces aren’t a factor. I used those for the framework of my workbench.