So, @uncleharry, what did the mint 300SD Turbo Diesel bring at the auction? My guess is the bidders all took a step back and left their hands in their pockets. Those cars are not highly marketable these days.
the 360 and 390 ford motors inspire the same awe in me uncle harry, the vehicle will rust away to nothing but the engine runs on.
they will take abuse.
I m fast becoming enamored with the jeep 4.0 L as well…
@uncleharry Thanks for the clarification. Yes, these diesels are durable and in Third World countries with $0.50 per hour labor rates they can be made to run forever. And most Third World countries do not use salt on their roads. In North America, high labor rates usually kill such ambitions.
Having said all that, I try to keep rack of long life vehicles, and recall riding in a rear drive Cadillac taxi with over 650,000 miles on it and still on the original engine. The original Checker cabs with small block Chevy engines routinely racked up a million miles before being scrapped.
$1,900 I believe. The important thing, to me, is that the new owner should be able to put at least 100,000 miles on it. I think it has 135,000 now. They may not be particularly popular at this point, but they are reliable and they aren’t making any more of the 1982 model. Who can say for sure what they may be worth in 20 years?
I have just begun to tackle draining and thoroughly cleaning the fuel tank, all the fuel lines, etc.
I was at an auto auction this morning in Reno Nevada. This mint 300SD Turbo Diesel came through… Anyone that knows the Turbo Diesel motor, will know these cars run for 500,000+ with no problems if they are taken care of.
That was written in July 2009, you can see pictures of the car in the link;
I think the gold color was a draw back for many, but the buyer is thrilled and it sure does look like a very nicely maintained car. Again, for me anyway, I think his initial expenditure for long term daily transportation was awesome.
Thanks for the clarification. Yes, these diesels are durable and in Third World countries with $0.50 per hour labor rates they can be made to run forever. Docnick
Doc, despite the low wages paid to maintain them, these cars are repeatedly singled out as durable machines, in various parts of the world, you know? Seems like they find those Mercedes of more value than other models.
@uncleharry Yes, they were well built compared to other European and most US cars. Every now and then I see one in our local shopping mall; It’s owned by a retiree who probably drives about 10,000 miles per year.
Others in our area have logged over 300,000 miles mainly because of the sturdy bodies and the simplicity of those engines. Today’s diesels would be another story.
We have 3 Mercedes dealers in the immediate area with about $150 per hour shop rates. Most diesel owner are retired mechanics who can do a lot of their own work. But parts are expensive.
In spite of their durability, they are not economy cars; You can run a Toyota Camry 4 cylinder for less money (overall cost per mile) that a Mercedes diesel. And it will likely last just as long.
The miles driven record in our area is a 1983 Toyota Celica GT originally from Nevada with 1.1 million miles on it and with the original engine. It’s white and still has the original paint job. The owner just gives it regular care. We live in a dry area and corrosion is not much of a problem. The owner admits the car uses 1 quart of oil every 3000 miles.
We wish you the best with the Mercedes and the car deserves good care. The mileage you mention is not high for this type of car depending how well the previous owner(s) took care of it.
I have a Toyota Solara, too, and it is a beauty. Just breaking in at 125,000 miles. Toyota makes one heck of a car.
Found more rust on the driver’s side rear wheel well on the 300SD. It certainly appears, from every even remotely sane perspective, that I’ve once again gone completely out of my mind.
You know what is a beautiful car I haven’t thought about much? The Toronado, especially those built in the '60s. They weighed almost 5,000 lbs.
@uncleharry
I’ve followed Your thread for a while and I like Your enthusiasm. I think You know it’s a moneypit. It’s a great car, but it is still a moneypit and I also know it’s a great car.
The rust may be Your biggest problem right now.
If You could come up with some pic’s of the rust you’ve found, I might be able to come up with a TIME estimate to do it RIGHT as that is a vital part of making it last.
I’ve probably welded in more square foots of sheet metal in cars than the number of pea’s You’ve eaten. And all to a very high standard - Which means, according to factory, or better. I wanna go to bed, proud of myself - not ashamed.
Plywood, floorboards, rivets, reused sheet aluminum and whathaveyou - no go here. Well, unless it’s a Morgan, the floor IS made of wood…
If You wanna get this baby up and running, do it so you can be proud of Yourself.
Best regards
Klaus
@uncleharry Glad to learn you have a Toyota Solara. My neighbor’s wife has one, a black convertible. He thought the car was nothing special until I told him it was the most reliable convertible money could buy. Wife really enjoys driving it. Especially with the top down.
Hey Asterix, appreciate your interest in sharing your expertise with me. Cool of you. I don’t know how to upload pictures. Let’s see if I can learn to do it.
Welding is something that fascinates me. (The team of full time medical doctors (okay, shrinks, there. I said it) who are court ordered to supervise me 24/7 won’t allow me to play with matches, let alone dabble with equipment that reaches 7,000 degrees, you know?) So, I don’t expect to become proficient at it any time soon.
Did Woodies have real wood doors and panels? The 1953 Buick Roadmaster did, I think. Having been close to starving to death my entire adult years, I’ve learned to be pretty resourceful, finding bargains and making do with various and sundry “adaptations” if you know what I mean. I almost made a leather belt, once! Sadly, no sharp objects, either. Doctor’s orders.
Yes indeed Doc, they are very nice automobiles. Didn’t know they were chosen as the most reliable convertibles. Pretty cool. Got it for my daughter. Had no idea it was so much fun, such a nice ride and SO reliable. It’s got a moon roof, but I’d prefer a convertible myself. She can move, too, in third gear with the 3.3L V6.
I checked the voltage on the bombs battery, certain it would flatline. Shot right up to 11 vdc. Turned on the light switch and it sank like a stone without a blink of light.
@uncleharry Make sure the timing belt has been changed. My neighbor was not aware of that until I reminded him. This should typically be done before 100,000 miles. Exact instructions as to when will be in the owner’s manual. On this car if the belt should brake it is usually goodbye engine.
Budget $750 or so with a good shop for this work. No need to go to the dealer. This is something I would not recommend you do yourself; too many opportunities to make a mistake. The 4 cylinder models do not have timing belts; they use chains.
Thanks Doc. Appreciate that very much. Wasn’t aware of this. Probably saved me a bunch of money.
a NEW FUEL TANK FOR MY BABY goes for about a thousand bucks from what I’ve found so far. I’d prefer to be able to clean mine so thoroughly (and if it isn’t rusted severely) to continue to use it.
Hope to find the courage to start examining her status by diving in to whatever needs to be done to do that (removing bolts). Also, hoping not to detonate anything that could violate America’s and JFK’s LTBT, (Limited Test Ban Treaty), ie. blowing-up 3/4 of the world. And, most importantly, hoping not to make World News Tonight (again) for inventing more multi-million megaton thermonuclear devices- without really trying.
Do you have any reason to think you need a new fuel tank . . . ?!
If you’re in doubt about your fuel tank, I’d remove it, take a peak inside, and clean it first. There are several companies that clean and refurbish fuel tanks, provided they don’t have gaping, fist-sized, rust holes
I know you said the wheel wells and floor panels had rust, but what about the rest of the car?
If I were you, I’d poke around some more and post pictures. Then we’ll give you our opinions.
By the way, a neighbor has a 300SD turbodiesel, a W126, which is used regularly, but I live in southern California, so it’s undoubtedly in better structural shape than yours
They’re not that uncommon here, actually. I’m not saying they’re common, but it’s not an exotic, either.
My point being . . . if somebody wanted to buy a 300SD turbodiesel with the W126 chassis, in very good structural condition, they’d be smart to buy one from the southwest. Preferably one that was garaged most/all of its life. No offense intended, but your car will never be one of the best examples out there
keep that in mind . . . you’re not going to make a profit
Thanks db4690. I’m expecting the tank to be brimming with all kinds of dark, damp, slimy viruses and bacteria, based on what I’m learning. If it turns out she’s salvageable with a good hot bath, that will be sweet. Some claim it is such a big and nasty job that it’s better to replace it with a new or newer unit. If I can figure out how to give her a thorough cleansing myself, I’d prefer going that route.
I read a story about a 1953 Buick Roadmaster that sold for 1.6 million. The point of the article was interesting. Cars of the same make, model and trim in mint condition typically sell for a fraction of that.The difference? Howard Hughes owned it. The value of a an older car skyrockets when the previous owner is an admired celebrity. I figure as my fame grows as the world’s leader in natural gas production, demand for my possessions will go ballistic.
If the tank is just dirty, don’t replace it
If you’re going to remove the tank anyways, might as well try to clean it first. As I said, even if there is some minor corrosion, there are companies that will refurbish it for considerably less than the cost of a new tank
Whoever told you to replace it is probably trying to sell you a tank . . . not exactly objective advice
db4690, appreciate your input.
I try to save money by doing labor when I can. Depending on the project, it can take me months to learn how to do something, but if it nets significant savings, it is often worth it to me. With businesses around that do this kind of work, I may decide it to pay them to do it. I’ll need to get prices after I determine what condition my tank is in.
Don’t really care about selling it for a profit, or selling it period. Would like to be able to drive her again and get her looking good. The paint still looks great and vinegar has done wonders to clean up the windows.