The lower radiator hose is basically the thermostat hose, it is connected to the engine block where the thermostat is sitting between them. And its a large one just like the other ones.
Im having only this problem for now, before that the engine burned coolant, but after the second engine replaced it stopped, not too sure yet since i haven’t picked the car up yet from the shop.
I see the temperature from a scanner to see exactly the temp, and both upper hoses are hot yes
If you’re saying the engine burned coolant, then engine must have overheated at some point.
When an engine overheats it can also cause the transmission to overheat. Damaging it.
If that’s the case, the transmission may now be overheating.
Have someone take an infrared thermal gun and measure the temperature at one of the transmission cooler lines when the engine starts to overheat.
Tester
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Yeah it did on 2 engines… still not too sure about the current engine tomorrow im going to check it up, mechanic said not burning coolant now, but still same problem with the thermostat. tomorrow will be able to check all those things with him and will update how it goes… thanks for all advices
Any chance the serpentine belt is on wrong, turning the water pump the wrong way? Have you confirmed the fan is blowing in the correct direction? And that no overheating occurs when the thermostat is out and the car driven a long distance?
What country are you in?
Nowhere in these posts do I see what type of transmission is in this car. Given Europe and 1.5 liter Lancer, I’d guess this a manual transmission which would have no connection to the cooling system.
@aiden167 could you confirm whether your car has a manual or automatic transmission?
The OP already answered the question.
Tester
You beat me to it, M-man!
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Nowhere did he use the words “automatic” or "manual. And a manual trans could have brown-ish fluid.
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The transmission in the post # 30 picture is an automatic, @aiden167 is that a picture of your car?
If the tranny were a manual, the OP would have replied, “there is no dip stick”.
Tester
@aiden167 Where are you located ? In one of your threads you say a Peugeot is a rare vehicle there . Is that the case with this vehicle ? I just have trouble understanding why you are having so much trouble getting things repaired .
I have trouble understanding why he keeps throwing engines at a car that wasn’t worth squat when it was new.
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There are several unknowns here. The thermostats in the lower (inlet) connection have been bypass devices in all vehicles I am familiar and I have seen many times that non bypass thermostats have been installed Also, if the water pump spins backwards on bypass systems I can’t imagine which way the coolant would flow. And so far a lot of Franks have been thrown at wild guesses so far.
Have you or your shop removed the suspect thermostat and placed it in a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer and watch to see if it opens at the correct temperature, and to the correct dimension. Likewise has anyone removed the top hose to the radiator and idled in engine from cold to verify coolant begins to pour from that hose as the engine warms ups after 5 minutes of idling?
If the thermostat passes the first test, but no coolant comes out of that hose, that suggests the coolant isn’t being forced through the cooling system. Something is clogged, the water pump isn’t turning, or its impellers are shot should all be considered.
It seems very unlikely the thermostat closes completely and stays closed after starting to drive. It’s a passive mechanical device, opens when its wax begins to expand w/increasing temperature. Old thermostats which have been installed for years will sometimes fail in the stuck-closed position, but new ones, as long as they’ve passed the water pan test, would rarely fail in the stuck closed position. The more likely failure mode for thermostats is they don’t close completely when cold b/c the parts warp.
If it runs cool with the t-stat missing and hot with it installed, I would drill a small hole in the t-stat and see if that helps… Does it already have a jiggle valve?? is it at the highest point in the housing??
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Since a lot replied i will try to answer everyone,
I don’t know if the belt installed correctly as the mechanic says it is, fan is blowing the correct way and car doesn’t overheat when taking out the thermostat.
Im sorry i didn’t mention what kind of gearbox it is, completely forgot about it, its automatic.
The picture i posted at #30 is indeed a picture of my car.
We have done a water pen test to all the thermostat we replaced they all worked fine… as well the water circulation…
I know this problem sounds not legit… but thats really what happens…
For those who need to know im for israel, this car is actually very common here and is known as a very reliable car, unlike the Peugeot. I even had this type of car before and never had a single problem, it went out in a accident tho…
The thing is the mechanics here are very unprofessional, 90% of them are doing their job as like they do you a favor and not trying to solve a problem but to replace an engine in most cases as its easier for them.
I didn’t pay for two engines, only for one as the previous one was not good.
Thats how shops are here and thats why im asking for your advices, and all the weird problems i had with previous cars, i solved by myself with help from guys like you in this forum.
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Hi Aiden167:
A few questions:
Problem is that the car gets hot everytime it happens, the fan starts working and doesnt stop becuase it gets hot becuase the thermostat isnt opening…
When the above happens, how are you determining the coolant temperature is what is triggering the fans to start working?
Is it possible the temperature sensor that triggers the fan to turn on is faulty?
Did this problem occur with your previous two engines? Or is it only happening with this engine?
It’s interesting to see you say the problem does not occur when the thermostat is removed.
Hi, so updating what happned today.
After searching more and more what may be the problem, the mechanic found the problem, it was the inside heater radiator, he doesnt know whats wrong with it but he cancalled the system and now everything works fine like it should, but now i just dont have a heater, but thats fine as long as the engine works good. i dont understand what was before because he told me he did check that but probably didnt pay much attention.
thank you all for helping, appriciate that.
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Well that’s not a solution, just identification of the problem. So a few comments. The heater core is the highest point in the system so could be harboring air. There should be a heater shut off valve in the system that would do the same thing. And adding the heater core to the cooling system may mean there is too much cooling capacity and the little engine can’t keep the temp up. I think it was Jerusalem though where we drove by an auto repair shop and the guys were working on the car outside on the driveway. So yeah may need to go to a dealer.
For whatever reason, the previous owners of my 59 Pontiac removed the guts of the heater control box. So summer and winter the heater was on full blast. So in the spring I clamped off the heater hoses, and in the fall had to replace them. Worked but a hassle.
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I am wondering if he found the real problem that he had messed up and just using that as an excuse, I don’t understand how you had proper heat but your heater core is stopped up enough to cause the vehicle to over heat, I have seen plenty of leaking heater cores cause over heating when the coolant level drops, never seen one stopped up cause the vehicle to overheat on a properly working cooling system… Just strange… Not saying it isn’t possible, cause I have seen some very strange thing with vehicles over 30+ years…
You need to put a water hose to one of the heater core tubes and see if water flows out the other heater core tube…
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