# Taurus A/C low side valve leaking **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Tags:** ford, taurus\ **Created:** [July 25, 2009, 2:01pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/taurus-a-c-low-side-valve-leaking/33973 "2009-07-25T14:01:04Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 7\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![thermographer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/57b2e6/32.png) [@thermographer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/thermographer)\ **Post date:** [July 25, 2009, 2:01pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/taurus-a-c-low-side-valve-leaking/33973/1 "2009-07-25T14:01:04Z")
2001 Taurus, 3.0 ltr, 133K miles. At the beginning of summer, we had the A/C recharged due to low pressure, the compressor cycling on and off, and the mechanic put some U/V dye in the system. Around the area of the low side valve (next to the firewall) I can see the green dye and when I pulled off the cap, the valve stem seemed to be flooded with the green stuff. Is this an easy fix, I guess the system will have to be recovered and the valve assembly replaced. I know a commercial shredder valve and be tightened clockwise, but not sure if this is the same thing. ---
**Author:** ![MG-McAnick](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/mg-mcanick/32/188_2.png) [@MG-McAnick](https://community.cartalk.com/u/MG-McAnick)\ **Post date:** [July 25, 2009, 2:07pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/taurus-a-c-low-side-valve-leaking/33973/2 "2009-07-25T14:07:21Z")
It may just need the valve mechanism, similar to where you put air into a tire, replaced. Yes you will need to have the R134a recovered. ---
**Author:** ![the\_same\_mountainbike](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/c89c15/32.png) [@the\_same\_mountainbike](https://community.cartalk.com/u/the_same_mountainbike)\ **Post date:** [July 25, 2009, 2:15pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/taurus-a-c-low-side-valve-leaking/33973/3 "2009-07-25T14:15:47Z")
Assuming you’re not having a problem now, my guess would be that what you’re seeing on the valve is residue from the tech’s having put the dye in the system. I’d leave it alone unless I again had a loss of refridgerant. ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [July 25, 2009, 3:19pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/taurus-a-c-low-side-valve-leaking/33973/4 "2009-07-25T15:19:55Z")
If the valve core is indeed leaking, AC techs have a tool that allows replacement of the valve core without the loss of refrigerant. Tester ---
**Author:** ![thermographer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/t/57b2e6/32.png) [@thermographer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/thermographer)\ **Post date:** [July 25, 2009, 3:53pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/taurus-a-c-low-side-valve-leaking/33973/5 "2009-07-25T15:53:24Z")
Thanks for the answers. I do believe it the valve core is leaking. It looks to be leaking under the cap and has left some of compressor oil or dye residue about 2 inches each side the valve. Mountain, there is a loss of 134A. My daughter drove up the other day and I could hear the compressor cycling on/off again. Tester, I forgot about this. We have the same setup on the oil rig that I work on, can replace the valve core without loss of coolant. I’ll ask the mechanic if they can do that. ---
**Author:** ![oldschool](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/o/e19adc/32.png) [@oldschool](https://community.cartalk.com/u/oldschool)\ **Post date:** [July 25, 2009, 3:56pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/taurus-a-c-low-side-valve-leaking/33973/6 "2009-07-25T15:56:37Z")
This is a common place for leakage it is also the place the dye was introduced,it could just be residue from the dye injection. A quick sniff with a electronic detector will clear the issue up. I like using a combination of methods to find and verify leaks. Rather than just replace the valve core I would replace the entire valve,then you can get another evacuation (after recovery) and a correct recharge by weight. The AC tech should not charge you for a full charge,it should be less what he recovered. Try as I may I can’t picture replacing the schrader valve without first recovering the charge. Have you condidered drier replacement,your system was low on a charge. Looked at the tool. I did not like the connection between DIYers and AC work. And as a pro I have access to recovery and evacuation equipment and so does the OP’s mechanic (the person who put the dye in). It would not be a addition to my box. Looks pretty neet though. ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [July 25, 2009, 3:58pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/taurus-a-c-low-side-valve-leaking/33973/7 "2009-07-25T15:58:49Z")
Here’s an example of one of these tools [http://www.truckpartsproshop.com/r\_134a\_valve\_core\_replacement\_tool\_kits.html](http://www.truckpartsproshop.com/r_134a_valve_core_replacement_tool_kits.html) Tester