To be accurate,motor oil in a new state does contain some carsenogins but in the used state which is where the concern is, it contains material picked up from the motor during combustion which is very bad stuff. Again, it’s not the idea of bathing in used oil that is the problem. It’s the cumulative effect of all that we are exposed to which in simpler times, we weren’t. Now, if an adult doesn’t care, that’s one thing. But not being careful if it gets into “my” water supply or leaving it about so children and pets can come into contact is something else. Adults can drink it for all I care if by choice, I would just they rather dispose f and work with it in the most prudent way possible so I and my family doesn’t. Seriously, a dry work glove or appear towel as mentioned can tell level.
If I can not see clean oil on the dipstick, usually rotating it slowly under light (sun or bulb), finally gives me a reflection.
Yeah, me too Galant. This new synthetic I just used (Pennzoil Platinum) was REALLY light and almost clear. I did turn the dipstick around a made it show the level in the sun, but it’s a pain. I was thinking about some type of dye, but then that would remain on the dipstick and defeat the purpose. What I need is something which will dissipate, like food coloring (maybe) or something else. Thanks for the post, Rocketman
I think I would just leave dyes and other additives out of the oil. I know it is harder with new oil but you can usually see it if you use a bright light or the sun. Unless you drive a real leaker, there should be some color to the oil by the next time you need to check it.
I agree cwatkin, I believe that I will skip the coloring agent and just either place the dipstick on a clean dry rag (as per another poster suggested) or turn it (dipstick) in the sun until I can see it. BTW, the synthetic seems to have a collateral advantage of slightly better mpg. I’ve only used two tankfuls since the change, but the commute to work is the same every day and in the tow tankfuls so far it appears to have increased my mpg a little. I’ll let you know how much in say 1000 miles or so. Thanks for your comments! Rocketman
I have noticed better running, better mileage, and less engine noise (lifters?) several times after switching to synthetic. One thing I notice on small engines is lower consumption of oil and less of an oil burning smell from the exhaust. I know synthetic may be overkill on some engines but I see it as cheap insurance. I also feel that the better mileage may more than offset the additional cost of the oil.
Right after changing my oil, I have trouble seeing where the oil is on the stick too. I lay the straight edge of a small, clean piece of paper on it, and in a couple of seconds it becomes obvious where the oil is and where it isn’t.
I like that trick. I think I’ll remember it for future use. Thanks.
I wouldn’t remain in contact with used oil… but if it was that bad, wouldn’t a lot of career mechanics have hands that were falling off by now?
I will say that synthetic oil keeps an engine mighty clean–when the valve covers were pulled off my old car to replace the gaskets at about 210K miles, the engine looked like brand new underneath after having been on a diet of Mobil-1 for years. While an engine isn’t “supposed” to get much hotter than 275 or so, all engines have some hot spots that beat up the oil. Some engines are notorious for this, so frequent oil changes and good oil are all the more important for them.
The other problem is that some engines also have cold spots, most likely the valve cover area. This is typically where sludging problems start when the oil combines with moisture and all the other crud that doesn’t burn off and isn’t taken care of by the PCV system.
The hot spots you mention are the main reason I think synthetic is better than ever for air-cooled units. I have pulled the valve covers off several for routine lash adjustments and the inside looks clean like new. It also slowly acts to clean deposits out of older engines too. This can be good or bad depending on the engine and its overall condition. I have seen them were the crud is holding them together.
I understand the Camry sludging problem was related to passages in the head being designed for higher temps in order to achieve higher fuel efficiency. These “hot spots” are what really broke down the oil as you say. There was nothing really wrong with these engines except that Toyota didn’t specify synthetic oil or a shorter change interval. I understand that engines using synthetic and/or a shorter change interval had no problems. Toyota did change their specified interval on these engines and future generations had a re-designed head that ran cooler.
After my third tankful of gas I have calculated an increase in mpg of almost 10%. I’ll keep checking. Rocketman
10% fuel savings will pay for itself in short order, even with fuel being a little cheaper than it has been lately. I never noticed this kind of savings. Mine was more like 5% but that is still worthwhile. In addition, you are doing a better job of protecting the engine.
My CX-9 has much less valve chatter on the morning starts since switching to the M1 Syn. It has a Ford Duratec engine and used to be pretty noisy. I can not rely on my gas mileage being better mostly because mine varies more with my drive and traffic.
Yeah, maybe a little less than 10% . . but still something that I can notice. I’m thinking that 1000 miles of checking mpg will be a decent measure. And I just checked the oil, it’s now a little bit darker (from the clear that it was right after changing it) and it’s easy to see. Rocketman
I have had a lot of experience with synthetic oil and most of it has been positive. I ran Castrol full syn in my 92 Toyota pickup and it had 375,000 in it when I gave it to my son. It died at 450,000 from a sucked valve (over revving?), and I went 7500 miles between changes for years. My current truck is a 2002 Toyota Pre-Runner with about 288,000 on it and it has had only full synthetic Valvoline since its first oil change. Engine is perfect, intervals are somewhere between 8-10,000 miles. We have had 2 Odysseys all on the Valvolene and my new Fit 45000 in 18 months, at an average oil change interval (by the indicator) of about 11,000 miles.The only car we had that didn’t like it was a 2000 Dodge Van that it leaked out of in buckets. A mechanic friend recommended the Valvolene because it is the only all U.S. made oil and he said it was higher quality than any of the other oils out there. It is really hard to find definitive data on these products, so we are left with anecdotal evidence. All I can say is that it has worked for me, sometimes it is hard to find and perhaps a little more expensive, but I see it as cheap insurance.
Grovej, Amsoil is US made. I started using it when a friend became a dealer. Basically, I just did it to help him, but I’ve become a believer in full synthetics. I switch my motorcycles and cars to it at the first oil change and just change once a year from then on regardless of mileage. That’ll be 12,000+ miles on the touring bike and 10,000+ on my pickup which pulls a travel trailer quite a bit. Some of my friends are aghast that I’ll go that far between changes, but I’ve had no oil-related problems and manage to get well into the 6 figures on even the bikes. I’ve got a Kawasaki hot rod that’s 15 years old and still completely original inside – even the clutch. And bless its little heart, it’s had a hard life 
I used to go through a quart of oil every 1000 miles on it, and after switching to full synthetic, that consumption is down to about 4 ounces.
One thing for Rocketman. If this is the first change with synthetic, you may notice the oil gets pretty dark pretty quick. This is because the synthetic is cleaning out any deposits left by the conventional oil. I am assuming you were using conventional and changing the oil regularly. This is just me but I usually make sure to change the oil within 3000 miles on the first change just because of all the extra crud that it works loose. The oil will stay cleaner looking longer after the first change or two. I also agree that engines with synthetic tend to have less clatter and run better overall. I also understand that they leave fewer deposits from the oil that is burned. ALL engines do burn some oil. While it may be imperceptible on the stick, this does leave deposits in the combustion chamber/on the valves and must pass through emissions systems components like the cat and O2 sensor.
@cwatkin Good point.
Now my car calls for 5W-20, but I guess the 0W-20 is a better oil/higher quality synthetic. Would you guys suggest I use the 0W-20? I have a CPO warranty up to 100k miles/7 yrs and am at 5yrs/50K miles, but not sure if & when I need the warranty I would be able to use it. I am doing my own maintenance, do keep logs and receipts.