# Subaru Outback 2013 rear brake pads replacement **URL:** \ **Category:** Maintenance/Repairs\ **Created:** [June 10, 2017, 5:35pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820 "2017-06-10T17:35:33Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 19\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![common-sense-answer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/common-sense-answer/32/716_2.png) [@common-sense-answer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/common-sense-answer)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 5:35pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/1 "2017-06-10T17:35:33Z")
In a few minutes I’ll be helping my son install new rear brake pads on his Subie. Car has 70,000 miles. Dealer rotated tires and told him front pads were “Yellow” and rear pads were “red” as a wear/replacentment advisory. No noise, no metal-to-metal, all is okay, just wear. He bought some pads (and rotors in case) and is headed this way. Any tips/hacks? I do GM brakes and I’m not familiar with Subaru “clips” ? How about torque specs for fasteners and wheel lugs ? Know where I can get them? Thanks, Guys! ---
**Author:** ![VDCdriver](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/vdcdriver/32/48514_2.png) [@VDCdriver](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VDCdriver)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 6:38pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/2 "2017-06-10T18:38:22Z")
> [@common\_sense\_answer](#): > > How about torque specs for fasteners and wheel lugs ? Know where I can get them? I can’t help you with the torque specs for the fasteners, but the wheel lug info can be found in–where else?–the Owner’s Manual. IIRC, it is 89 lb. ft., but I suggest that you use the manual to double-check my recollection. ---
**Author:** ![common-sense-answer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/common-sense-answer/32/716_2.png) [@common-sense-answer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/common-sense-answer)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 6:53pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/3 "2017-06-10T18:53:38Z")
> [@VDCdriver](#): > > I can’t help you with the torque specs for the fasteners, but the wheel lug info can be found in–where else?–the Owner’s Manual. IIRC, it is 89 lb. ft., but I suggest that you use the manual to double-check my recollection. Thanks! The car is here, now. We took a look and wouldn’t you know that the dealer’s definition of “red alert” is different from what my son is thinking. He’s deciding whether to replace the pads at this time. Pads are wearing evenly, rotors are smooth, not grooving, etcetera. I found out that Subaru “clips” that I saw referenced online are just like GM’s stainless rail cover “clips.” No surprise there. _ **CSA** _ ---
**Author:** ![db4690](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/db4690/32/2583_2.png) [@db4690](https://community.cartalk.com/u/db4690)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 7:02pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/4 "2017-06-10T19:02:22Z")
If the car uses the rear brake pads as the parking brake, you’ll need a tool to properly retract the caliper pistons Other than that, there should be nothing unusual about this ---
**Author:** ![VDCdriver](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/vdcdriver/32/48514_2.png) [@VDCdriver](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VDCdriver)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 7:35pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/5 "2017-06-10T19:35:13Z")
> [@db4690](#): > > If the car uses the rear brake pads as the parking brake This model uses small brake shoes inside the “hat” for the parking brake. ---
**Author:** ![VDCdriver](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/vdcdriver/32/48514_2.png) [@VDCdriver](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VDCdriver)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 7:40pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/6 "2017-06-10T19:40:31Z")
> [@common\_sense\_answer](#): > > Pads are wearing evenly, rotors are smooth, not grooving, etcetera. I’m not surprised, actually. When Subaru did their “clean sheet” redesign of the Outback as of the 2010 model year, the brakes became much…beefier. At my last service (71k miles) the original front pads still had 6mm of material remaining, and the rears still had 5 mm remaining. At the rate that they are wearing, I doubt that I will have to do rear pad replacement before 80k miles, and I think that the fronts will probably go to at least 85k miles. ---
**Author:** ![common-sense-answer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/common-sense-answer/32/716_2.png) [@common-sense-answer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/common-sense-answer)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 8:30pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/7 "2017-06-10T20:30:32Z")
> [@db4690](#): > > If the car uses the rear brake pads as the parking brake, you’ll need a tool to properly retract the caliper pistons > > Other than that, there should be nothing unusual about this Thanks, it doesn’t, but I’m familiar with that from one or two of my Pontiacs, I believe. I bought the weird little (six-sided) tool for them. _ **CSA** _ ---
**Author:** ![BillRussell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/billrussell/32/3179_2.png) [@BillRussell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/BillRussell)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 9:34pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/8 "2017-06-10T21:34:56Z")
> [@VDCdriver](#): > > can be found in–where else?–the Owner’s Manual. I checked my owner’s manual and the only reference I could find says “tighten the nuts to the specified torque”, with no mention of what the specified torque is. (15 forester) ---
**Author:** ![VDCdriver](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/vdcdriver/32/48514_2.png) [@VDCdriver](https://community.cartalk.com/u/VDCdriver)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 9:47pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/9 "2017-06-10T21:47:40Z")
I have to admit that it took a bit of searching in the Owner’s Manual to find the correct wheel lug torque for my Outback–but it was there. IIRC, there were three separate parts of the manual that dealt with tires and/or tire changing. Unless your manual is drastically different from the one for my '11 Outback, I suspect that the info is there…somewhere. After I finally located the info, I wrote it on the inside of the manual’s back cover, and highlighted it for future reference. ---
**Author:** ![Tester](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/tester/32/15976_2.png) [@Tester](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Tester)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 10:04pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/10 "2017-06-10T22:04:20Z")
Caliper bolts…20 ft/lbs Brake hose bracket bolts…24 ft/lbs Lug nuts…Doesn’t matter. You’re just going to slather them with anti-seize. So whatever you set torque wrench to, it’s not the proper torque. Tester ---
**Author:** ![BillRussell](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/billrussell/32/3179_2.png) [@BillRussell](https://community.cartalk.com/u/BillRussell)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 10:08pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/11 "2017-06-10T22:08:26Z")
Assuming you mean 20 ft-bs and 24 ft-lbs. Sorry to be so picky… ---
**Author:** ![common-sense-answer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/common-sense-answer/32/716_2.png) [@common-sense-answer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/common-sense-answer)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 11:02pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/12 "2017-06-10T23:02:54Z")
> [@VDCdriver](#): > > I’m not surprised, actually. When Subaru did their “clean sheet” redesign of the Outback as of the 2010 model year, the brakes became much…beefier. Very nice brake design and function (with dual piston front calipers). There wasn’t even very much rust on anything, considering we live in salt country. Impressive:slight\_smile: He had so much pad left that he decided to “let it ride” and will check on the brakes again later on down the road. We buttoned it up for now. _ **CSA** _ ---
**Author:** ![common-sense-answer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/common-sense-answer/32/716_2.png) [@common-sense-answer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/common-sense-answer)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 11:06pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/13 "2017-06-10T23:06:45Z")
> [@VDCdriver](#): > > I can’t help you with the torque specs for the fasteners, but the wheel lug info can be found in–where else?–the Owner’s Manual. IIRC, it is 89 lb. ft., but I suggest that you use the manual to double-check my recollection. Correct! 89 ft. lbs. The torque spec was easy to find in the Owner’s Manual Index. It actually listed wheel lug torque and a page reference. Very easy to find! Impressive! Thanks. _ **CSA** _ ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/bing/32/4619_2.png) [@bing](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 11:07pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/14 "2017-06-10T23:07:51Z")
Sounds like my major oil leak the dealer detected which surprisingly doesn’t leak any oil. They said I needed new front pads before that too and when I changed them, they didn’t look all that bad. Nothing like self-healing cars. ---
**Author:** ![Barkydog](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/barkydog/32/2470_2.png) [@Barkydog](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Barkydog)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 11:10pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/15 "2017-06-10T23:10:23Z")
So are you going to do the pads and rotors anyway? Just a matter of time, ---
**Author:** ![bing](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/bing/32/4619_2.png) [@bing](https://community.cartalk.com/u/bing)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 11:18pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/16 "2017-06-10T23:18:27Z")
Dead at only 57. Saw Willie Nelson last night at the Casino and he did at least three songs about being dead. I’m just glad I saw him while he’s still kicking. ---
**Author:** ![common-sense-answer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/common-sense-answer/32/716_2.png) [@common-sense-answer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/common-sense-answer)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 11:20pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/17 "2017-06-10T23:20:27Z")
> [@Tester](#): > > Caliper bolts…20 ft/lbs > > Brake hose bracket bolts…24 ft/lbs > > Lug nuts…Doesn’t matter. You’re just going to slather them with anti-seize. So whatever you set torque wrench to, it’s not the proper torque. _ **“Caliper bolts…20 ft/lbs”** _ I got your spec too late. Those babies weren’t very tight from the factory, so we put them back, to probably around 20 ft. lbs. _ **“Brake hose bracket bolts…24 ft/lbs”** _ Thanks, didn’t touch them. _ **“Lug nuts…Doesn’t matter. You’re just going to slather them with anti-seize. So whatever you set torque wrench to, it’s not the proper torque.”** _ Ha, ha, ha 😄 Actually, it’s my son’s car, not mine. Nobody has put anything on the lugs (They made that nice “creaaak!” when we loosened them) and I explained to my son that they are supposed to be dry. So we torqued them to the specified 89 ft. lbs! He can screw up his own car if he wants to. 😉 _ **CSA** _ ---
**Author:** ![Barkydog](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/barkydog/32/2470_2.png) [@Barkydog](https://community.cartalk.com/u/Barkydog)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 11:24pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/18 "2017-06-10T23:24:17Z")
Love Willie plays the old guitar with the wood worn to a hole, Jealous of course, glad you got the time to enjoy him, me, carp it is a weekend I love music so sorry but here I go again, whoops that ain’t blue eyes crying in the rain ---
**Author:** ![common-sense-answer](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/cartalk/user_avatar/community.cartalk.com/common-sense-answer/32/716_2.png) [@common-sense-answer](https://community.cartalk.com/u/common-sense-answer)\ **Post date:** [June 10, 2017, 11:39pm UTC](https://community.cartalk.com/t/subaru-outback-2013-rear-brake-pads-replacement/104820/19 "2017-06-10T23:39:43Z")
> [@bing](#): > > Dead at only 57. Saw Willie Nelson last night at the Casino and he did at least three songs about being dead. I’m just glad I saw him while he’s still kicking. I saw something about that. Somebody said or wrote something that they thought he had died and they were surprised he was still alive. So, Willie wrote a song about waking up not dead. 😄 I didn’t know there were 3! _ **CSA** _