Based off of everything I’ve researched told me that it was going to be adjustable & it still seems like it is but it’s different than what i was expecting.
I already did the measurements with my screwdriver. I’m just trying to figure out how to adjust it without taking the booster off.
The peddle went down 1/8-1/4 of the way down before it had any force
There is a 1/2 inch difference in length between the old & new master cylinder. Old is 1/2 inch longer
If the push rod bore of the original master cylinder is 1/2" deeper, the problem seems to be with the new master cylinders. Search the part number, see if they are the correct part for the car.
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If the problem was the adjustment (length) of the push rod, wouldn’t the brakes be dragging all the time? If I understood correctly, the brakes only drag after driving for a while. It makes sense that if the booster rod was too long, the brakes would drag immediately, right?
Not always. If the master cylinder piston is depress 1/16" it may not be enough to apply any pressure in the hydraulic lines but at that position the return ports to the reservoir are blocked. As the brake fluid in the calipers heats and expands it can’t flow to the reservoir and pressure builds in the lines.
If the push rod were adjustable it may compensate for a 1/16" or 1/8" difference in replacement parts but not 1/2". If that measurement is accurate there is a problem with the new master cylinders.
Makes sense.
In that case take the damn thing out and connect the lines together. Who needs abs? Just something else to break
Got a new master cylinder that’s 1/2" longer than the other one I had & the entire system seems to be working just fine without any problems.
One problem that I’m not sure if I should be concerned about it that when i put the car in drive & press on the brake pedal, it goes down 2"- 2 1/2" & starts slowing the car down. (gas pedal height is 3" & the top of the brake peddle is 5" high before pressing on the brake)
I had car the weeks locked up and it the calipers a little bit dirt does a lot of damage
No dirt in calipers.
Felt a bit spongy.
Either air in the line or need new booster.
Bled each line with 16oz of fluid coming out & couldn’t find air.
Gonna bleed again & if still spongy then new booster is needed.
For some reason the check engine light comes on when the car is cold. Stays off if the car is warm.
From your reports, you’ve seen brake fluid between the master and the booster. You may have gotten fluid in the booster.
I might of jumped the gun a little bit. The left side of the master cylinder where the bolt goes had brake fluid dripping from it & that was because the back side of the car sits lower than the front side & the brake fluid was leaking out of where the brake line goes (I had it off while putting the cylinder in). I took the cylinder out & put the lines on then put the MC back in and there was no dripping brake fluid after that
The car’s “rake” has absolutely nothing to do with the leak. A master cylinder should be sealed from loss of fluid when in use regardless of its horizontal situation. Imagine what a problem there’d be for all those people with steep driveways or hills in their drive home if it were not.
the lines to the MC were off at the time. It’s gravity on how it was leaking