You want me to save you a lot of time? It’s most likely the proportioning valve. When it goes bad the brakes will lock up and them old Honda’s are bad about it. The only other thing is brake pedal push rod adjustment but don’t think that would be it. It’s not the master cylinder and it’s not the calipers. It’s that valve. I’m 99% sure
Also don’t listen to some of these folks. An abs sensor has absolutely nothing to do with it. Been a mechanic for 8 years
then why do the brakes not lock up or stick with the old master cylinder on?
Plus on top of that the rear brakes are sticking & locking up last. It’s the front brakes that are locking up first.
I highly doubt the proportioning valve is the problem unless it locks up the front brakes but I can’t find any information on proportioning valves causing the front brakes to lock up
Well you said that you have put several master cylinders in so we know that can’t be the issue. There’s no way you bought that many faulty master cylinders. We know it’s not a caliper or brake line because it’s happening at all 4 wheels. The only thing left that directs fluid from the master cylinder to all 4 wheels is the proportioning valve. It seems to me that fluid can get through it but not flow back so right now it’s acting as a check valve
the front brakes stick/lock up before the back does & when that happens the rotors on the front are so hot that when i throw snow on them then the snow melts instantly but the back never gets as hot as the front.
After i replace the wheel sensor then I’ll check the proportioning valve.
I have my doubts about that being the problem but I’ll keep that in mind when i work on it next.
Still doesn’t make any sense when everything worked just fine without anything heating up when the old master cylinder was on
Well I know the main symptom of a bad proportioning valve is the rear brakes locking up. The only reason I’m saying this is because I had a 95 Honda Accord a long time ago with similar issue and that was it, but I may be wrong. Won’t be the first time. Let us know when you figure it out
wait a second. Isn’t the proportioning valve basically the ABS modulator?
Cause the only valve i can find for it is https://www.ebay.com/i/182875630739?chn=ps
No. This is the abs modulator for a 94 Accord. http://www.lowmileageparts.com/1994-HONDA-ACCORD-Anti-Lock-Brake-Part-Assembly-P436876.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-8uk05_b2AIVyLfACh0IQAT8EAQYASABEgJRqPD_BwE#.Wl1KC2JOmaM
I guess there is a possibility that abs pump is doing it. The module and pump are a single unit. It’s what you see in the picture. I just don’t think that a single faulty sensor would make the pump run. The ecu has to detect a rapid decrease in speed with all 4 wheels. One bad sensor would just throw an abs code. I’ve just never seen it be the abs pump like that, but i guess it could be.
there is only 2 wheel speed sensors & they are on the front not the back
Yes the silver part where the brake lines connect is the pump portion of the unit. Where the electrical connectors fit in is the module
That is definitely a good possibility. I’m just hoping that’s not a problem.
there is only 2 wheel speed sensors & they are on the front not the back
I don’t know where you from but where I live we have a shop that will rebuild your abs module for you and it’s way cheaper than buying one
Omaha Nebraska. There is no where around here to do that. Would have to buy a new one which would run anywhere from $1000-$2000
I think what he said, if I understood correctly, was that his pedal was sinking and not stopping the car so he changed the MC. Then the brakes began slowly applying themselves as he drive. He then reinstalled the old MC and the brakes stopped applying themselves but the pedal sank (sunk?) as before.
The thread is long and in some places difficult to create a clear image of the problem. But that was my understanding.
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Okay I tried disconnecting the ABS modulator & the brakes locked up. I reconnected the ABS modulator then
I tried loosening the bolts to the master cylinder and the brakes worked just fine but brake fluid was leaking between the master cylinder & the Brake booster so I put them on snug not tight & when I pressed on the brake peddle then I keep hearing a pop so I put the bolts back on tight and the brakes locked up but the ABS modulator stopped losing brake fluid & now is full.
Is the Modulator faulty?
I really don’t know what the problem is here.
I am starting to lose my mind here
I would seek professional help at this point.A pro will find your problem in no time.
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You are what I call spinning your wheels. It is time for a brake shop to fix this problem before you crash and injure yourself or someone. We all have had to admit at some point that we need to have an expert take over.
If an expert can do it then so can I. They are no different than I am. I don’t need your negativity